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I didn't use it for a while and found a halo on its surface (or surfaces, I'm not sure) I know that redhancer filters use special glass, and the halo may be due to this... but how can I clean this filter? I mean, how can I remove this halo?
I am unable to remove the filter from my 20-35 f/2.8 and wonder methods you might suggest. It is a B+W UV-Haze and neither it nor the lens show any dings or dints. The filter looks in good condition but I rarely use any filter except a polarizer. A local camera repair shop took a look and didn't give much hope for removing the filter without destroying it the process. Before I go caveman on it I thought I'd ask what you might do.
I am posting this for a friend who is searching for help. "Hi everyone, I wasn't expecting to find myself taking HDR photos but... I have a research project wherein I attempt to isolate tree/shrub foliage from non-foliage (e.g. branches, buildings). I am using a fisheye lens attached to a Nikon Coolpix 5400 that has been retrofit to shoot in the IR. This is helpful since foliage has a very strong IR response. A common problem in using hemispherical photography to measure foliage is uneven illumination conditions. These conditions make it more difficult to set thresholds that will separate leaves from other stuff. HDR photography appears useful in circumventing this issue and I've gotten some useful results. That said, I am not skilled in this art and am basically just accepting presets in Dynamic Photo HDR. I think I could be doing a better job enhancing the local contrast between branches and foliage given the increased dynamic range. I am posting two photos. The first is one shot under relatively good conditions: limited shadowing and bright foliage. However, I'd like your thoughts on how (or if it's possible) to highlight the contrast in the circled areas. The second photo is shot under trickier conditions: dense coniferous shadow. HDR has already helped this result a lot but, again, I'm wondering if I can do better in distinguishing the little branches from the foliage. (Photos shot using AEB -1,0,+1 which is the max allowed automatically). Thank you for your thoughts, Mike Alonzo" I have tried sharpening these images to give more local contrast but it seemed that there would be a bettr result if the image itself was more selective. Any ideas? I will forward your responses to him and encourage him to join OS so he can get some support in his work. TIA, Lew