Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'fujifilm'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

  • Gear Zone
  • Technical Zone
  • Travel Zone
  • Story Zone
  • Learning

Categories

  • Wide Angle Primes (6mm to 35mm)
  • Standard Primes (40mm to 70mm)
  • Telephoto Primes (70mm to 400mm)
  • Super Telephoto Primes (+400mm)
  • Zoom Lenses
  • Z Mount Lenses

Categories

  • Zoom Lenses
  • Primes Lenses
  • Adapted Lenses

Categories

  • Prime Lenses
  • Zoom Lenses

Categories

  • My Life In Photography
  • General
  • In My Professional Opinion
  • On Equipment

Categories

  • Property Photography Zone
  • Equipment
  • Marketing
  • Lightroom Editing
  • Real Assignments

Forum

  • Photography
    • Best Of Fotozones
    • Analog Photography
    • Birds
    • Carspotters
    • Nature
    • People
    • Photojournalism
    • Places
    • Planespotters
    • Macro Photography
    • Other
  • Gear & General
    • Nikon
    • Micro Four Thirds
    • Fujifilm
    • General Gear Chat
    • Fotozones Safaris
    • Ask Questions
    • News & Videos
    • Gear Classifieds
    • Off Topic
    • Lightroom
    • Forum Archives
    • Announcements

Calendars

  • Community Calendar
  • Challenges Calendar
  • Safari Calendar

Product Groups

  • Fotozones Web Hosting

Categories

  • eBooks
  • Lightroom Presets
  • Printable Photo Files
  • Ringtones

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Member Title


Skype


Whatsapp


My Real Name


Patreon Link


PayPal.me


Photographic Interests


Edit my pics?


My Favourite Camera


My Favourite Lens


My Favourite Image Editor


My Location


Website

  1. Dallas

    Hangups

    From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  2. From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  3. From the album: The X100 Files

    Terminator Spray (a.k.a. The Gustavo Fring Edition)

    © Dallas Dahms

  4. From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  5. From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  6. Dallas

    Doomed

    From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  7. Dallas

    Barbed

    From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  8. From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  9. From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  10. From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  11. Dallas

    Titles

    From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  12. Dallas

    Stacked

    From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  13. Dallas

    Diving In

    From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  14. From the album: The X100 Files

    © Dallas Dahms

  15. Last weekend I was cleaning the little X100 and experimenting with some of the settings, specifically trying out the back button focus method. I must have done something else wrong because during the course of the week I was using the camera on a couple of lifestyle shoots for the real estate work I do and I was getting wildly off exposures. It would either be way over or way under. This was obviously quite distressing because I have (as you probably already know) become quite attached to this camera that Alan gifted me. I have read about the sticky aperture blades (SAB) problem that some early X100's had and my immediate thought was that somehow this had affected my X100, even though it is not in the serial range that apparently some of the affected units were in. This afternoon I thought I would check out what was going on, so I had the camera out and was checking all the settings. If I pointed the camera at a bright light source it would sometimes get the exposure right, but then in the next shot it would be off badly. This was happening at all apertures. At this point I was really despondent and I was almost certain that I had the dreaded SAB problem. I then had a look at the front of the lens to see what was going on and I could see that the aperture was definitely moving and it wasn't stuck, but it wasn't behaving normally at all. If I pointed the camera at a light source it would stop all the way down and then open up as I was moving it around. So definitely not sticky aperture blades. But then why was the exposure so erratic? And why did the aperture move even when I wasn't taking a shot? Much head scratching. The only settings I had changed was the AF-S to M mode, which is a physical button, but something else must also be off. So I thought, let me try and see if the built-in flash would give me a decent exposure. Pushing on the flash activation part of the rear dial displayed a message, saying that I needed to turn off the silent mode (which I don't recall setting to on), so I did this and then took a few flash shots. No problems at all with exposure. As it turns out I had somehow put the camera into silent mode, which seems to invoke an electronic shutter that is only functional under certain settings. Normally I don't have any noises turned on, but the X100 would still use the mechanical leaf shutter. Needless to say I am mightily relieved! And to celebrate I am having some SAB (South African Breweries) of my own. Photo with the X100, of course.
  16. The reality of being a professional photographer is that (for me at least) the opportunities to enjoy taking photos for yourself become somewhat limited in number. There are a variety of reasons for this, chief among them in my case is the fact that whenever I pick up a camera these days it feels like I am going to work, so laying my hands on the tools of the trade doesn’t bring with it the kind of excitement I used to feel when I was an amateur photographer. Instead it brings about a thought process that is anything but leisurely in nature. If I have my cameras in my hands I’m usually thinking about pleasing clients rather than myself. In fact, camera gear has become so banal to me over the 15 years since I declared myself open for business as a photographer that I literally only own the bare necessities these days. 4 lenses and 2 bodies. That’s it. Really. Everything I need to do my job is there. That was until just before Christmas 2022 when something new, but old entered the scene. Alan Lesheim (@Alan7140) and I have exchanged many lengthy private messages over the 10 years since he became a member of Fotozones. We were both early adopters of the mirrorless revolution in photography, with me going down the Micro Four Thirds route and Alan the Fujifilm one. We have developed a “pen-pal” kind of friendship that I really appreciate, because if I ever need to know anything about photography he is my go to guy. After reading my November newsletter wherein I expressed a desire to start taking photos for myself again by perhaps investing in a Fujifilm X100 sometime in the future, Alan reached out and offered to send me his original Fujifilm X100 as a gift since he wasn’t going to use it again. I would just need to get some batteries for it as the originals were no longer serviceable. Wow! Talk about suddenly finding impetus amidst the mire to engage in personal photography and gear lust again! Ordinarily I wouldn’t have accepted this generous offer because of the terrible situation with the postal service in my country. There is maybe a 50/50 chance of any parcel sent from abroad actually getting to me when using the PO, such is the level of corruption and thievery going on there. But then I remembered that a very good friend of mine was working a contract as a care-giver in Wales until the end of November and would be coming home to SA just before Christmas. I asked him if he wouldn’t mind receiving the parcel for me and then bringing it with him. He happily agreed to do this, so Alan then sent the camera to him and thus began a countdown as to whether it would get there in time before he went to his next assignment in Essex, England. As luck would have it the package arrived with him literally the day before the UK Postal workers went on strike. After sourcing two 3rd party batteries and a USB charger from Amazon for less than £20 all I had to do was wait for Nigel to get back home, which with all the other strikes that are going on in the UK these days started to look a bit sketchy. But he made it back and I collected the X100 from him on the 23rd of December. From the moment I held the camera in my hands I knew that I was going to love using it. It truly is a unique and masterfully engineered piece of kit, but what I wasn’t quite expecting was the exquisite image quality that comes with this little package. I mean, yes, I had read enough about it over the years to know that this range of cameras has achieved a near cult status among users since it first hit the market, but the images I am seeing from this “mere” 12MP Bayer sensor are just different to anything I get from my MFT kit. The colours are more lifelike and the rendering has this kind of 3D effect that reminds me of my days shooting with Leica 35mm rangefinders. Maybe it’s all in my mind, but I know that I like it. I like it a lot. To begin with there was the obligatory random snapping around the house to get to grips with how everything worked on the X100. It didn’t take me long to familiarise myself with the menu and the few buttons it has. It’s wonderfully simple (unlike the Panasonic G9 I have had for the past 2 years that still has me scratching my head when I need to quickly change a setting somewhere). Operationally you have your aperture ring, a shutter speed dial and an exposure compensation dial. A couple of other buttons on the back and the top plate give you all you need to make whatever other adjustments are necessary to take a pleasing photograph. The D pad and ring around it are actually very similar to what I remember from the Olympus Pen series cameras I have had over the years, just better implemented, it seems. The X100 just feels right. It feels the way a camera should feel to me. It makes me want to go and enjoy photography again, which means that it has already “done its job” of getting me thinking about personal photography again. These interesting flowers only open at night. They grow on a vine that lives on this fence between us and the construction site. The way I have it set up now is to shoot in JPG (fine) + RAW. The Fuji JPG’s are brilliant, but I am always going to want a RAW file to play around with in Lightroom. I have set the top Fn button to activate the built in ND filter, so I can shoot outdoors at f/2.0 and not blow the exposure, then the RAW button is set to select the film simulation for the JPG, since I am always going to have a RAW file captured alongside the JPG. I use Auto-ISO in Aperture priority mode with a minimum shutter speed of 1/30 before it bumps the ISO to the next higher level. The auto ISO mode seems to top out at ISO 3200. You can however select a higher ISO when shooting in regular ISO mode, just not Auto. If I am honest I find that this camera is much more responsive than my 2018 Panasonic G9. It turns on faster, it displays the shot you’ve just taken much faster and it’s also a lot faster to zoom in on the image than it is on the G9. The AF is not as fast but it is a lot snappier than I have read about it in reviews. The one thing that I do find a little awkward to work with is changing the AF point. To do this you have to press the AF button on the left side of the camera and then use the D pad on the right side to navigate to the point you want to use. It is a bit clumsy to operate this way as you need two hands, but I’ll get used to it. Other things I have come to love in the short time I have had it are the tiny little flash, which is fuss-free and offers a decent amount of well balanced fill flash for casual use. Images shot with the flash active actually don’t look like they have been flash lit at all. The macro function is also nice and allows you to get the lens up much closer to a subject, but it isn’t a real macro magnification. Focus confirmation is also different to what I am used to. There is no green dot in the viewfinder, instead the focus point turns green when it has achieved focus. The readout also tells you how far away your subject is, which is the first time I have seen that in any camera. Something I probably won’t use much is the optical view finder. The hybrid OVF/EVF was the big talking point when the X100 and X-Pro 1 were released and it remains a pretty unique feature of the Fujifilm cameras in this rangefinder style. I suppose this is probably useful in dimly lit situations where an EVF might battle a bit, but for me personally I’d rather have a poor EVF that shows me more or less what the image is going to look like before I take it than an unwanted surprise afterwards where I have totally messed up the exposure. So where is my personal photography journey headed now that I am officially inducted into the Fujifilm owners club? As a former GAS sufferer the first thing I did when Alan said he was sending me this little gem is start researching the entire Fujifilm line-up. What lenses are there? What bodies would be best suited to my work? Can I use the system in the same way that I use the MFT system? Then all at once I scolded myself and resolved to only consider the Fujifilm system for my personal photography. There is nothing to be gained by selling off my MFT equipment and replacing it with similar equipment from a different brand. Not a single client will notice and I certainly won’t be able to charge more for photographs made on a slightly larger sensor than the one I have been using for the past 10 years. What I can do though, is simply enjoy the process of making photography for myself with a proper camera again. The X100 will become my trustworthy side-kick whenever I go somewhere and I want to bring back some photos. It lets me get what I need without becoming a nuisance or hindrance to what I want to record. It’s all I will ever need to keep me interested in doing the thing that made me pick up a camera in the first place. Thank you, Alan! Here are some personal shots made over Christmas Day and around the house. Stress relief for my son who still lives at home. Stress relief for his Dad. Me and the Missus. When it rains on Christmas, make a ginger bread house. The kids had great fun building it up, but the eating thereof didn't go down so well!
  17. I'm a huge fan of being able to create film simulations with the Fuji JPG engine. This one is from FujiXWeekly.com. Ritchie over there is creating some great film simulations. I've create a few of my own as well (monochromes) and will share some of those later. The Recipe: Kodak Tri-X 400 Film Simulation: Acros+G Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: 0 Shadows: +3 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: +1 Grain Effect: Strong, Large ISO: Auto 1600+ Exposure Comp: +1/3 to +1 Clarity: +4 White Balance: Daylight, +9R, -9B Color Chrome Effect: Strong The Location: Forest Lawn Cemetery, East Side of Columbus, OH - Looking for a place to walk and snap some pictures. The Work: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
  18. Let us rewind to the analog film days of photography. The 35-50mm taking lenses were kings of their era and were present to almost every manufacturer systems offered. Their maximum aperture were ranging from a modest F3.5 to an astounding F1.2 if you were able to afford it. With the introduction of electronic autofocus and motorized cameras they were replaced by a plethora of different trans-standard zoom lenses from the cheapest ones to the expensive "pro" such as the 24-70mm F2.8. And that tendency has been replicated right from the start of the digital cameras era. With an angle of view of 63 degrees the Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR can be assimilated as a "eye-normal" standard lens although for some their opinion is that this Fujinon model is a bit too wide to be classified easily in that category. Its close focusing ability is good and this caracteristic contribute largely to its versatility. It is not a (head) portrait optic but surely you can work full body view portrait with confidence and proximity of your main subject. The Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR lens is a useful "interior" lens providing you are not looking for a very wide view (the Fujinon XF16mm F2.8 or XF10-24mm F4 R OIS lenses for example should be more interesting choices in that case). For sure in some narrow contexts you will need to contorsion yourself to embrass the whole subject. Because of its reduced size, this Fujinon XF23mm f2 R WR is a discrete optic and more if it is coupled with a Fujifilm X-E or X-M series camera body. This particular nature will be fully appreciated if you doing street, travel or casual photography in giving you the possibility to be more spontaneous in your activity. We cannot escape the (Leica) Summicron lens series analogy even if we are speaking of two very different lines of optics especially considering the electronic involvement into the Fujinon X-series. The two control rings of the Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR allow you to select your aperture and adjust your focus manually if needed or hoped. In the case of the aperture it is handy to be able to better control the deep of field of your subject and also with the focusing ring have the capacity to choose the optimal focus point. The Fujifilm lens hood furnished with the lens is small and none-protuberant (You can leave on almost permanently except if you intend to use optional 43mm screw-in filters). What about the optical quality image output of the Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR lens? Suffice to say that I cannot see any noticeable (for me!) between this optic compare to the others Fujifilm XF series lenses. To be more reassured you can consult the numerous technical tests over the web. But in my sens the best way of evaluating a lens for your specific needs is to take pictures with it. It can fit or not your style of photography and respond accordingly to your specific technical way of taking pictures. In some countries Fujifilm offers "try and test" session or even loan programs to do so. So the Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR lens is it for you or not? That is the big question. Focal fixed lenses are optics that are asking a photographer adaptability to be ensure their complete useful. So your mobility is a key point of success when you intend to select that category of optics. If you feel better and confortable to work from a fixed point of view and reframe with a variable focal zoom lens that can be a big issue. On the contrary if you are a kind of "active" photo takers this Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR can be be an creative and easy manageable answer (as for all the others focal fix Fujinon lenses). A few years ago I was discussing with Billy Luong of Fujifilm Canada about the possibility of creating a king of "bridge" new lens between the existing XF27mm F2.8 and the expensive XF23mm F1.4 R model and I have noticed his smiling facial expression at the moment. Less than one year after this conversation the new Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR was introduced on the market. Additionaly the Fujinon XF 23mm F2 R WR is now offered as a complementary ("kit") lens combined with various camera body models at a very competitive price point. For many photographers it could a very wise and rewarding choice...
  19. Let us rewind to the analog film days of photography. The 35-50mm taking lenses were kings of their era and were present to almost every manufacturer systems offered. Their maximum aperture were ranging from a modest F3.5 to an astounding F1.2 if you were able to afford it. With the introduction of electronic autofocus and motorized cameras they were replaced by a plethora of different trans-standard zoom lenses from the cheapest ones to the expensive "pro" such as the 24-70mm F2.8. And that tendency has been replicated right from the start of the digital cameras era. With an angle of view of 63 degrees the Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR can be assimilated as a "eye-normal" standard lens although for some their opinion is that this Fujinon model is a bit too wide to be classified easily in that category. Its close focusing ability is good and this caracteristic contribute largely to its versatility. It is not a (head) portrait optic but surely you can work full body view portrait with confidence and proximity of your main subject. The Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR lens is a useful "interior" lens providing you are not looking for a very wide view (the Fujinon XF16mm F2.8 or XF10-24mm F4 R OIS lenses for example should be more interesting choices in that case). For sure in some narrow contexts you will need to contorsion yourself to embrass the whole subject. Because of its reduced size, this Fujinon XF23mm f2 R WR is a discrete optic and more if it is coupled with a Fujifilm X-E or X-M series camera body. This particular nature will be fully appreciated if you doing street, travel or casual photography in giving you the possibility to be more spontaneous in your activity. We cannot escape the (Leica) Summicron lens series analogy even if we are speaking of two very different lines of optics especially considering the electronic involvement into the Fujinon X-series. The two control rings of the Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR allow you to select your aperture and adjust your focus manually if needed or hoped. In the case of the aperture it is handy to be able to better control the deep of field of your subject and also with the focusing ring have the capacity to choose the optimal focus point. The Fujifilm lens hood furnished with the lens is small and none-protuberant (You can leave on almost permanently except if you intend to use optional 43mm screw-in filters). What about the optical quality image output of the Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR lens? Suffice to say that I cannot see any noticeable (for me!) between this optic compare to the others Fujifilm XF series lenses. To be more reassured you can consult the numerous technical tests over the web. But in my sens the best way of evaluating a lens for your specific needs is to take pictures with it. It can fit or not your style of photography and respond accordingly to your specific technical way of taking pictures. In some countries Fujifilm offers "try and test" session or even loan programs to do so. So the Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR lens is it for you or not? That is the big question. Focal fixed lenses are optics that are asking a photographer adaptability to be ensure their complete useful. So your mobility is a key point of success when you intend to select that category of optics. If you feel better and confortable to work from a fixed point of view and reframe with a variable focal zoom lens that can be a big issue. On the contrary if you are a kind of "active" photo takers this Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR can be be an creative and easy manageable answer (as for all the others focal fix Fujinon lenses). A few years ago I was discussing with Billy Luong of Fujifilm Canada about the possibility of creating a king of "bridge" new lens between the existing XF27mm F2.8 and the expensive XF23mm F1.4 R model and I have noticed his smiling facial expression at the moment. Less than one year after this conversation the new Fujinon XF23mm F2 R WR was introduced on the market. Additionaly the Fujinon XF 23mm F2 R WR is now offered as a complementary ("kit") lens combined with various camera body models at a very competitive price point. For many photographers it could a very wise and rewarding choice... View full article
  20. I've got a long love affair with the original rangefinder cameras (Leica M4-P & M6) and the now digital rangefinder style cameras (Fujifilm X-E2, X-E2S & X-E3). I don't know if it is due of the fact that their viewfinder is located off center (meaning not in the same optical axe of the picture taking lens). But that peculiar camera body design seems to stimulate my creativity and my motivation to brought the camera in places and at moments that I will have a tendency to ignore. The Fujifilm X-E3 is the fourth version of a popular model design that many photographers like to bring with them as their main camera or at least as their back up camera body that happens to becoming eventually their most used. The X-E3 is using the same 24MP image sensor that the X-T2 and the X-T20 have. So the picture quality is at par of the two last mentioned models. One of the thing which most interesting when you are using a rangefinder style digital camera is the fact that they are less noticeable, less protuberant, less intrusive in front of the subject.. This characteristic to be more discrete is always appreciated by the spontaneous photographer on the street, during a travel and even when you taking a candid portrait of a person (The camera seems to be less "serious"). Many people were tempted to make the comparaison with the Fujifilm X100F which a compact APS-C digital camera doted with a similar fixed lens of 23mm. If you combine the Xf23mm F2.0 lens with the Fujifilm X-E3 the two cameras will give the same angle of view. But the Fujifilm X100F is more a (large) pocket camera while the Fujifilm X-E3 is an interchangeable lens model that have a more standard dimension. Fujifilm X-E3 w/ Fujinon XF55-200mm F3.5-4.8 R LM OIS Most people will talk in length about the good or the bad handling of a camera model. It is always a very personal and intuitive impression at the end. Ergonomics are designed by technicians that are biased by their own physical and cultural differences. All this has been said one thing that I have experimented with the Fujifilm X-E3 is its fine ergonomic in terms of the camera body and lens combination and I am surprise how good and easy it is still true even when you are using a larger zoom lens such as the Fujinon XF55-200 F3.5-4.8 R LM OIS. As a travel or street photographer I fully appreciate this ability. About the tiny Fujifilm EF-X8 electronic flash which is included with the furnished camera accessories I was skeptical of its practical use but I have found it very easy to bring with me and positioning on the X-E3 (You can leave it at rest on the Fujifilm X-E3 camera at its down off-position). Dont forget that the EF-X8 is using the battery pack power of your camera. As a fill-flash and as an emergency flash unit are may be the two best tasks of the EF-X8. For a more extended use of an electronic flash it is better to couple an external unit doted with its own power management. Window back lightning interior ambiant light exposed Using a fill-in flash can be one of the most rewarding thing to do with interior photography with subject that are backlighted during the daylight period. The color temperature is similar between the ambiant natural light and the electronic flash output and the only big task is to choose an interesting exposure balance between the two in preserving or not the shadows or even simply voluntarily underexposure the ambiant (effect often use in fashion photography). Using the Fujifilm F-X8 as a fill-in flash Small in-board camera flashes are a very handy solution but they are located usually too near the taking lens and often interfering with the lens hood that you have to remove to prevent incomplete flash coverage. The Fujifilm EF-X8 give a more elevated flash reflector position. You just have to push it in its down position if you want to shut its power off. Officially the Fujifilm X-E3 is a less "sporty" camera model than let's say the X-T series models such as the X-T20 or the X-T2 or even the X-H1. The off-center viewfinder may create a small different perspective between you naked eye and the image recorded by the taking lens but if your concentrate your attention to your viewfinder it wont be noticeable. So spontaneous photography stay a strong opportunity. As for most of the Fujifilm X-series camera models, the controls of the photo basic parameters are designed in a similar fashion way as it is used to be for the traditional analog (film) cameras. Shutter speed, lens aperture, exposure correction and focusing options including manual adjustment can be selected with direct dials or control rings. The others parameters have to be adjusted through push buttons, touch screen options or using the versatile joystick located beside the rear screen. All these functionality controls need to be learn before really be able to master them without hesitation. Using the Quick menu (Q) and reprogramming certains function controls can facilitate the handling of the Fujifilm X-E3. Most of the menu option presentations are easy to understand and interact but some functionalities may need more time and essaies to get the habit. There is a lot of autofocusing modes at your disposal that can tailored your shooting workflow. The all-"AUTO" option (lever next to the shutter speed dial) is a good idea for emergency snapshot without disturbing your already programed setting. The electronic viewfinder (EVF) is fine detailed with all the (configurable) information you need and got an auto-rotation presentation very useful for vertical framing. In some specific situations the image on the EVF will be more contrasting making more difficult to evaluate low and highlights. For people who are wearing glasses like me the eye relief is more limit and will ask you to pay more attention to the corner of your framing composition of your subject. The back and none-orientable live screen (LVF) give you a better reviewing rendition of your picture facilitating a deeper image analysis. The side location of the Fujifilm X-E3 electronic viewfinder may give you a better viewing confort compare to the centered viewfinders of the X-T series models. The instant picture review is easier and the reviewing (Play) push button is located on the bottom right side of the LVF. In all the Fujifilm X-E3 is a very convenient camera model that respond correctly to the compact size device but without sacrificing too much better handling compare to the larger DSLR model type. If you are already an owner of other Fujifilm X-series models you will fully enjoy that the X-E3 is using the same battery packs and external electronic flashes without forgetting that it is part of the same optical lens mount system. The Fujifilm X-E3 doesn't have an in-(camera)body-image-stabilization system (IBIS) and will rely on your ability to set and handle the camera to avoid generating blurry from the photographer's movement. Of course you can couple a lens with an optical image stabilization (OIS) that will help you to prevent that phenomena and further permit you to select lower shutter speed in low light situations or simply to get a smaller lens aperture (for increasing the deep of field). As a loosely rule of thumb, no stabilization is available with focal fix lenses (except for the new XF80mm F2.8 OIS Macro and the XF200mm F2 OIS) and it is the contrary with zoom lenses (with some noticeable exceptions such as the XF16-55mm F2.8 Pro). At this day the Fujifilm X-H1 is the only X-Series model equipped with an IBIS. What I am appreciated the most of the Fujifilm X-E3 is its compactness and its very discrete status in regard of other people ressent when they are facing the camera. It is what can call not only a user-friendly camera but also a subject-friendly photo device. Combined with a short fixe focal or short zoom lens, the X-E3 appears to be part of the family. It is not perceive as an agressive intruder of our life compare to the look with the DSLRs. So the interaction between the photographer and the subject is very different and much more positive. If you like Black & White photography you will adore to work with the Fujifilm X-E3. This lovely camera model offers you a choice of two monochrome reddition, standard Monochrome and Acros, with 3 different filtering variations, Yellow, Red or Green. So you can literally transform the X-E3 as a Monochrome camera without further expensive investment. (This remark is also good for the other Fujifilm models). Is it sufficient to simply have a good camera device that can deliver not only nice, well exposed and focused pictures but which is also a creative tool fun to use and to bring with you? Sure there will always be more performing camera models now and in the future and that is inevitable in this race for better human crafting. But in the mean time we have not to forget that the most interesting and rewarding think is to do photography. In a sense the Fujifilm X-E3 fulfill nicely the task of proximity photography essential in close urban situations or in interior contexts. The Fujifilm X-E3 is a compact photo companion that is not only a competent tool but is also an inspired creative device.
  21. I've got a long love affair with the original rangefinder cameras (Leica M4-P & M6) and the now digital rangefinder style cameras (Fujifilm X-E2, X-E2S & X-E3). I don't know if it is due of the fact that their viewfinder is located off center (meaning not in the same optical axe of the picture taking lens). But that peculiar camera body design seems to stimulate my creativity and my motivation to brought the camera in places and at moments that I will have a tendency to ignore. The Fujifilm X-E3 is the fourth version of a popular model design that many photographers like to bring with them as their main camera or at least as their back up camera body that happens to becoming eventually their most used. The X-E3 is using the same 24MP image sensor that the X-T2 and the X-T20 have. So the picture quality is at par of the two last mentioned models. One of the thing which most interesting when you are using a rangefinder style digital camera is the fact that they are less noticeable, less protuberant, less intrusive in front of the subject.. This characteristic to be more discrete is always appreciated by the spontaneous photographer on the street, during a travel and even when you taking a candid portrait of a person (The camera seems to be less "serious"). Many people were tempted to make the comparaison with the Fujifilm X100F which a compact APS-C digital camera doted with a similar fixed lens of 23mm. If you combine the Xf23mm F2.0 lens with the Fujifilm X-E3 the two cameras will give the same angle of view. But the Fujifilm X100F is more a (large) pocket camera while the Fujifilm X-E3 is an interchangeable lens model that have a more standard dimension. Fujifilm X-E3 w/ Fujinon XF55-200mm F3.5-4.8 R LM OIS Most people will talk in length about the good or the bad handling of a camera model. It is always a very personal and intuitive impression at the end. Ergonomics are designed by technicians that are biased by their own physical and cultural differences. All this has been said one thing that I have experimented with the Fujifilm X-E3 is its fine ergonomic in terms of the camera body and lens combination and I am surprise how good and easy it is still true even when you are using a larger zoom lens such as the Fujinon XF55-200 F3.5-4.8 R LM OIS. As a travel or street photographer I fully appreciate this ability. About the tiny Fujifilm EF-X8 electronic flash which is included with the furnished camera accessories I was skeptical of its practical use but I have found it very easy to bring with me and positioning on the X-E3 (You can leave it at rest on the Fujifilm X-E3 camera at its down off-position). Dont forget that the EF-X8 is using the battery pack power of your camera. As a fill-flash and as an emergency flash unit are may be the two best tasks of the EF-X8. For a more extended use of an electronic flash it is better to couple an external unit doted with its own power management. Window back lightning interior ambiant light exposed Using a fill-in flash can be one of the most rewarding thing to do with interior photography with subject that are backlighted during the daylight period. The color temperature is similar between the ambiant natural light and the electronic flash output and the only big task is to choose an interesting exposure balance between the two in preserving or not the shadows or even simply voluntarily underexposure the ambiant (effect often use in fashion photography). Using the Fujifilm F-X8 as a fill-in flash Small in-board camera flashes are a very handy solution but they are located usually too near the taking lens and often interfering with the lens hood that you have to remove to prevent incomplete flash coverage. The Fujifilm EF-X8 give a more elevated flash reflector position. You just have to push it in its down position if you want to shut its power off. Officially the Fujifilm X-E3 is a less "sporty" camera model than let's say the X-T series models such as the X-T20 or the X-T2 or even the X-H1. The off-center viewfinder may create a small different perspective between you naked eye and the image recorded by the taking lens but if your concentrate your attention to your viewfinder it wont be noticeable. So spontaneous photography stay a strong opportunity. As for most of the Fujifilm X-series camera models, the controls of the photo basic parameters are designed in a similar fashion way as it is used to be for the traditional analog (film) cameras. Shutter speed, lens aperture, exposure correction and focusing options including manual adjustment can be selected with direct dials or control rings. The others parameters have to be adjusted through push buttons, touch screen options or using the versatile joystick located beside the rear screen. All these functionality controls need to be learn before really be able to master them without hesitation. Using the Quick menu (Q) and reprogramming certains function controls can facilitate the handling of the Fujifilm X-E3. Most of the menu option presentations are easy to understand and interact but some functionalities may need more time and essaies to get the habit. There is a lot of autofocusing modes at your disposal that can tailored your shooting workflow. The all-"AUTO" option (lever next to the shutter speed dial) is a good idea for emergency snapshot without disturbing your already programed setting. The electronic viewfinder (EVF) is fine detailed with all the (configurable) information you need and got an auto-rotation presentation very useful for vertical framing. In some specific situations the image on the EVF will be more contrasting making more difficult to evaluate low and highlights. For people who are wearing glasses like me the eye relief is more limit and will ask you to pay more attention to the corner of your framing composition of your subject. The back and none-orientable live screen (LVF) give you a better reviewing rendition of your picture facilitating a deeper image analysis. The side location of the Fujifilm X-E3 electronic viewfinder may give you a better viewing confort compare to the centered viewfinders of the X-T series models. The instant picture review is easier and the reviewing (Play) push button is located on the bottom right side of the LVF. In all the Fujifilm X-E3 is a very convenient camera model that respond correctly to the compact size device but without sacrificing too much better handling compare to the larger DSLR model type. If you are already an owner of other Fujifilm X-series models you will fully enjoy that the X-E3 is using the same battery packs and external electronic flashes without forgetting that it is part of the same optical lens mount system. The Fujifilm X-E3 doesn't have an in-(camera)body-image-stabilization system (IBIS) and will rely on your ability to set and handle the camera to avoid generating blurry from the photographer's movement. Of course you can couple a lens with an optical image stabilization (OIS) that will help you to prevent that phenomena and further permit you to select lower shutter speed in low light situations or simply to get a smaller lens aperture (for increasing the deep of field). As a loosely rule of thumb, no stabilization is available with focal fix lenses (except for the new XF80mm F2.8 OIS Macro and the XF200mm F2 OIS) and it is the contrary with zoom lenses (with some noticeable exceptions such as the XF16-55mm F2.8 Pro). At this day the Fujifilm X-H1 is the only X-Series model equipped with an IBIS. What I am appreciated the most of the Fujifilm X-E3 is its compactness and its very discrete status in regard of other people ressent when they are facing the camera. It is what can call not only a user-friendly camera but also a subject-friendly photo device. Combined with a short fixe focal or short zoom lens, the X-E3 appears to be part of the family. It is not perceive as an agressive intruder of our life compare to the look with the DSLRs. So the interaction between the photographer and the subject is very different and much more positive. If you like Black & White photography you will adore to work with the Fujifilm X-E3. This lovely camera model offers you a choice of two monochrome reddition, standard Monochrome and Acros, with 3 different filtering variations, Yellow, Red or Green. So you can literally transform the X-E3 as a Monochrome camera without further expensive investment. (This remark is also good for the other Fujifilm models). Is it sufficient to simply have a good camera device that can deliver not only nice, well exposed and focused pictures but which is also a creative tool fun to use and to bring with you? Sure there will always be more performing camera models now and in the future and that is inevitable in this race for better human crafting. But in the mean time we have not to forget that the most interesting and rewarding think is to do photography. In a sense the Fujifilm X-E3 fulfill nicely the task of proximity photography essential in close urban situations or in interior contexts. The Fujifilm X-E3 is a compact photo companion that is not only a competent tool but is also an inspired creative device. View full article
  22. I thought all the big events were over and done with but there has been a barrage of new products in the last few days - all mirrorless ! first a new Nikon Z Lens; a new Canon R body plus a slew of R mount lenses previewed and a new body and lens from Fuji. There was also a Panasonic announcement a week or two earlier.
  23. The lenshood you see in this photo is a replacement for the Fuji offering that I don’t like. It is solid aluminium and a 52mm screw thread, the cost of this hood shipped from China including P&P ordered though Amazon was £2.63, hence my use of the word bargain.
  24. Fuji continues with its updates - new AF tracking algorithm, and compatibility with the new Fujfilm X Raw Studio in-camera raw processor with tethered computer interface. http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/xt2/download.html
  25. FrankF asked if I could write up something about processing X-Trans raw files, noting that his usual adjustments for NEF files didn’t work with RAF files. Straight off, and despite much dismissive hand waving by those who would use Adobe Lightroom or Camera Raw to process their files regardless of any opinion as to the quality of the end result for X-Trans files, I can only say that I’ve tried ACR at every update until CC Rent-a Shop came into play and the results, while tinkered with substantially about the edge, were still nowhere near as good as processors using Dave Coffin’s dcraw algorithms for the X-Trans demosaic. So the following will not be for Adobe users as I don’t use LR/ACR for X-Trans. Ever. As Frank uses Photo Ninja (as do I), I’ll run through what I do to convert X-Trans raw files using that program. This is just how I use it, I'm not suggesting it is gospel. I really like the results I get this way, so I guess that's what really matters to me - your needs might vary. For whatever reason the folk at PN did individualise their program by assigning names to sliders that are not common in their effect to more conventionally consistent names in other makers’ programs. This isn’t really a problem once familiarity is gained, but can be confusing at first. Here’s the image I used as Photo Ninja presented it straight from the demosaic. I used this image because it has fine detail, the highlights are overexposed, and there are many fine and small colour gradations - plus the folder was open on the computer anyway . As a photograph it isn’t anything much, but as a taxing of the demosaic it perhaps is. The following is how I have found it best to use the controls - this might differ from any “official” instructions, but hey, whatever works.... Note that when you're working in any panel, clicking on the ◄► icon under the sliders (highlighted in screen grab below)will show the unprocessed image, releasing will show the processed image concerning that panel. After exiting one of the control panels for the overall menu, clicking on them will show the unprocessed image, releasing will show the processed image including all panels adjusted so far. So at any time you can flick back and forward between processed states without having to hunt all over the screen for a preview box to tick or un-tick. Here’s a screen grab at 100% of the image as opened, along with clipped highlight indicators: So here’s the PN controls panel as it has opened an un-worked image with default settings: Starting at the top, and the first hurdle which had me stumped for a long time when I first used this current version of PN (and which took an email to PN support to get an answer) is the “Color correction” menu. Misleading, because in it is the slider that controls what everyone else calls "Highlight recovery" but has been called “Color recovery” in PN. Further confusion is caused by the fact that its default setting is strength 100. At this setting PN will fill any blown highlights with an aggregate colour from the surrounding un-blown area, which can sometimes look awful, even taking on a solarised appearance. The Color correction panel: I have changed that default number to 50 in my prefs, which I find a better overall beginning setting for my files, but that might vary according to your shooting style. Whatever, it is something to be aware of. On the whole PN and Fuji together seem to do a good job on colour balance, but if there’s a lot of green in shot you’ll probably have to do a custom WB and knock excessive magenta compensation out of the default. I didn't mess with WB in this case, though, although it could be improved a bit I suppose. For comparison purposes I also thought a constant WB might be more useful. I would have warmed it up, although in this case the cool tone serves to locate the scene on the cusp of winter during a cold (6°C) day rather effectively. Next in the main panel is the primary adjustment menu - “Exposure and detail”. These are the settings it opened the sample image with: As can be seen, there’s a bit going on at the right of the histogram that’ll need hauling into line (clipped highlights indicated with the red line). The first thing to keep in mind is to try to work from the top down in this panel. The Illumination and Exposure offset sliders directly affect one another and should be worked in concert, keeping an eye on the highlight clipping indication in the preview image as well as watching the histogram. In this case in order to haul the highlights back it will be necessary to further reduce Exposure, then return the image to its original overall brightness with the Illumination slider. (If the image is underexposed to the left of the histogram, then the opposite movements of these two sliders will be required, and contrast increases in that case). As can be seen, the image no longer spills to the right, and the histogram light tones are a bit more centralised and the clipped highlights are recovered. The visual effect will be to have slightly flattened the contrast of the image, and as there is no need to adjust shadows as they are are not falling off the left of the histogram the Shadows and the Black sliders can be skipped and the Contrast slider gently bumped up until the shadows just start to block, and then backed off a bit. In this case enough punch was added back by shifting Contrast to +7. The final slider in this panel is the Detail slider and this must be approached with the utmost caution with X-Trans files. With Bayer files it is relatively gentle but with Fuji X it is vicious and some real artefacting can occur. I’ve found that maximum setting of +4 is all I can use before things get choppy. This slider can be used to the negative side with great effect to reduce grain noise, however, and sometimes works better than third party NR programs, or Noise Ninja itself, for that matter. Next comes the Color enhancement window. This has three presets in a drop-down menu - “Plain" (obvious as to effect), “Portrait” (which darkens/dulls green and blue but lightens/accentuates yellows and reds) and “Scenic” which saturates all colours. My default opening settings for this image: I have set my prefs to open this in Portrait mode as above, and will then use the fine-tuning sliders to alter the depth and saturation of individual colours as indicated in the colour boxes above the sliders. Select a box (green in this case) and adjust the Hue and Hue affinity sliders to bring back the brightness to the greens that the “Portrait” preset had killed a bit much. The rest of the control panels are more targeted and to be honest I rarely use them as I have other programs that do the job better. Occasionally I'll use the vignette for effect or the Chromatic aberration if processing a file taken with an older Nikon AI-s wide-angle, but the Fuji lenses really don't have any aberrations to worry about - at least none of mine do. Even the little Samyang 8mm fisheye is amazingly free or fringing. For sharpening I use Helicon Filter as a Photoshop plug-in, specifically the “sharpen fine details” slider in the sharpening panel, which usually gets best results between +15 & +25, and it has the least halo effect of any sharpener I have used. So here’s the finished processed shot And here’s a set of 100% sections of the before, the after, and one final one with +15 Helicon Filter sharpening as well. Default: Processed: Processed and Helicon Sharpen Fine Details +15: The final version here might be a bit over-sharpened for screen, but is about what I find prints best on my Epson 7800 using Innova Smooth Cotton High White and Ilford Gallerie Gold Fibre Silk. Once familiar with the program, running through these adjustments takes only a few seconds, and from that point of view it is much quicker than other dcraw-based processors I've tried (Windows - I don't use Mac). But getting quick at it does take practice, as with anything. Postscript: As always we'll be compromised by the ancient web colour space of sRGB and jpeg compression. Of course this image was processed in 16-bit Pro Photo colour space, and saved so tagged as an uncompressed TIFF, which means it probably looks a whole lot different to what you may be seeing on your monitor. One day the Web will catch up, maybe after it is done trying to be a phone app and gets back to being something worthwhile.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By visiting this website you are agreeing to our Terms of Use, Privacy Policy & Guidelines.