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Ann last won the day on 15 July

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About Ann

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    Professional Photographer
  • Birthday 24 September

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  • Location
    New York State
  • Interests
    �Everything —� except anything to do with popular "Celebrities"
  • Edit my pics?
  • Fav. Camera
    Nikon D5
  • Fav. Lens
    Whichever best fits the moment

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  1. Very well done: that situation is the type for which Highlight-weighting Spot metering was designed.
  2. Your experience does echo some of the reviews on B&H and although there are several other Lightning Detectors, they get even less satisfactory reviews. Now that I think about it, I already have a device which could act as a lightning trigger but it is less portable than the Miops. I have the excellent StopShot system from Cognisys and have used its crossed laser beams to capture small objects and insects in mid-flight but have never had it with me when I have been out in the open with a clear view of a really dramatic thunder storm.
  3. The second shot shows one hell of a Thunder-head! I have often considered buying Miop's rather cunning Lightning Detector:{creative}%2C{keyword}&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhbzBoaeY1QIVkY2zCh0PZQA4EAQYAiABEgJpffD_BwE&is=REG&m=Y&sku=1074687 I would definitely get it if I lived in, or spent sufficient time in, more open countryside because although capturing Lightning Strikes at night (with the open-shutter technique) is easy enough, you can't use that technique that in broad daylight.
  4. Akira: These settings might work for you: Exposure Meter: Spot metering with Highlight-weighting. Custom setting Menu: b7 Fine-tune optimal exposure: Highlight-weighted metering: 2/6 or +0.03 EV Photo Shooting Menu: Active D-Lighting: Normally selecting Auto will work very well; but, to give an extra boost to shadows: increase it manually up to +H2. If the action on stage is fast and furious, shoot in Manual mode with Auto ISO (possibly confined to a limited rang).e.
  5. You don't need to use Lr: you can get exactly the same tools if you open a NEF directly into Photoshop because the NEF will open in Adobe Camera Raw. (ACR is the same engine that drives Lr and has all of the same editing tools). When you have finished your edits, you can Save the file as a JPG or open it directly into Ps as a PSD for further editing. I actually loathe Lr and do all my RAW Conversions with ACR (either hosted by Ps or by Bridge) which saves me all that time-wasting Importation into a Catalogue nonsense. Incidentally, updates for both Camera Raw and Lr were posted last night. I have never considered skilled processing and editing to be "cheating" if the aim is to make a beautiful photograph: Forensic photography for the Courts would be an entirely different matter.
  6. The Highlight Weighted Spot-metering mode is particularly useful for bright objects against dark backgrounds and is also the answer to shooting under the varying coloured-lighting sources that are used for theatrical and concert performances. You can also use Highlight Weighted Spot-metering simultaneously with Nikon's Active D-Lighting and this can help considerably under very contrasty lighting and high DR situations. Active D-Lighting actually adjusts the exposure and the curve slightly at the time of shooting to ensure that the shadows receive a sufficient boost of exposure and do not fall into blackness. These adjustments are recorded in the RAW file and are readable by any Converter (not just with those made by Nikon.)
  7. Saving and Reloading your Saved Camera Settings: The Nikon D5 allows you to save your Camera Settings to a special file and then re-load those settings at anytime. It is a very useful trick and saves a lot of time if you have been using a whole range of changed and abnormal settings for a particular shoot. I keep one of these Camera Settings files on my XQD Cards; and also have a back-up of it stored on my Laptop. You can do this through the Set-up Menu > Save/Load Settings.
  8. I don't know if you can do this with all cameras, but some Nikons allow you to save your Camera Settings to a special file and then re-load those settings at anytime. It is a very useful trick and saves a lot of time if you have been using a whole range of changed and abnormal settings for a particular shoot.. I keep one of these Camera Settings files on my cards; and also have a back-up of it stored on my Laptop.
  9. There is a Transform/Upright tool, in both ACR and in Lr which can be very useful when using a Fisheye or ultra wide-angle together with lens corrections in the software. The sleepers under those railway tracks are decidedly wonky (the Bridge may actually be collapsing?) but you could use the Straightening Guides in the Transform Tool to pull the front-most Sleeper parallel to the horizon.
  10. I am wondering whether those are really scratches or if they are just smeared oily-dirt which could have resulted from the "professional" sensor cleaning? Before you do anything else, get some Eclipse and cleaning swabs and wet-clean the Sensor yourself. And be prepared to repeat, perhaps three times, to really get it clean.
  11. Happily, a scratched sensor has not yet happened to me .but if it did, I would go with the first option because the second one sounds like hatchet job and a major rip off which would damage the integrity of the camera and make it unsellable in the future. I would also check with Nikon and find out what they would charge to replace the sensor's filter. Another possibility might be to wait until the D820 ships and thus reduces the cost of buying a second-hand D800 as a replacement. You might get something for your damaged D800 if you sold it for parts.
  12. I think you are right, Peter. Mourning Cloaks/Camberwell Beauties does seem to be what they are and their butterflies are beautiful. That's a huge relief because although the dreaded Gypsy Moths are increasing their previous territory, I hadn't heard that they had reached Alaska. I do live in hilly and wooded country (one really can't call the Appalacians: "Mountains"!) and we do see Mourning Cloaks. They seem to over-winter in their chrysalis and then hatch in the very early Spring.
  13. These are fascinating: tiny little treasures who most of us have never had a chance to see.
  14. I notice that you are reducing exposure by -1.3 EV in conjunction with Spot-metering on a mid-grey subject. That is considerable under-exposure because you are setting the camera to record a mid-grey as almost Black so that you then need to boost the "exposure" (really that's Brightness or Gain) and the Shadows excessively in Post. I suggest that you try exposing much more to the right (of the Histogram). If you are shooting RAW, you almost certainly have much more headroom in the HLs before they blow-out and these Spider photos don't have any ultra-bright HLs anyway. Noise lives in the shadows; it revels in Under-exposed files; and it displays itself even more when you try to open up those under-exposed shadows in the software.! It's fine to reduce Color Noise but don't reduce Luminance Noise if you can possibly avoid it because doing so kills fine details and quickly turns them to mush. The Bokeh is not disturbing but if you want smoother tones in existing backgrounds, you can achieve that by using Blur Filters in PP while protecting the primary object with a Layer Mask.
  15. There are some worth-remembering and very useful quotable lines in that collection. But dare I tell a particularly large friend that she is just "Easier to see"?