cwjc

Life Member
  • Content count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 of my posts have been liked

About cwjc

  • Rank

  • Birthday 1 January

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    ottawa
  • Edit my pics?
    Ask Me
  1. A little bit of technical update. I did an earlier night-flight post. 1. Autofocus: Daytime aerial photos through the window with the 28-300. This is normally deadly for the D800 autofocus - Df breezed through it. I was up at night a few weeks ago and today confirms that, for me, Df is superior to D800 by a long way. The D800 hunts with any lens at exactly the wrong time. 2. Battery: 878 shots on a fully charged battery, image review, raw+jpg (1800 files), all singing all dancing on the lens. I deliberately sprayed-and-prayed just to see what the battery would do. Still showed all the bars when I got out of the plane. For my purposes battery life is infinite. 3. Handling: a breeze and I was on the right side which is very awkward for right handed shooting. 4. Resolution: there ain't no substitute for cubic pixels. Df is good but D800 blows it away for aerials. Oh well... Nothing special about the shot, a partly finished bridge on one of the local rivers south of Ottawa. Out the left window behind the pilot's back. Pretty though. 5 years ago (I think) nothing on the near bank existed. 12 years ago nothing on the far bank existed. Except for the 2 highways. Who needs farmland? CWC
  2. Thanks for the compliments. Correct on the D800, most of the recent ones anyway. I've used everything from FE2 with 20 rolls of film (ugh) to the D800 and it wins hands down in daylight. Pretty damn good at night too.
  3. Thanks. I think I missed the correct upload procedure as the file seems to be only 147K. The size I meant to upload is here, http://www.flickr.com/photos/23575605@N08/12526311093/. I bet the D610 would be great in the air :-). The combo of Df and 70-200 2.8 handled like a dream, too, I realize belatedly. I usually have a sore right hand after an hour in the air, not so this time. Very easy to shoot, and a C172 is super tight and one is always twisted in odd ways to avoid taking over from the pilot while looking at the tail of the plane! Battery started out only partly charged and was still going, in the cold, an hour later. 900 shots and that's usually par for the course of an hour. 900 shots with the lens on active VR mode. AND, the plastic is great in the cold. I love plastic bodies, at least at the hand-hold.. The airport we fly out of is below.
  4. Night aerial photography with the Df and 70-200 2.8 It took me 20 years and 60 flying hours to get a night flight as a passenger and I bought the Df for just this reason. This is a pano of 10 shots over Ottawa to illustrate how great the above noted combo is. 1/500, 6400 ISO, 70mm, about 20 minutes after sunset. Nothing done except auto-pano in Photoshop and resizing in AcdSee. And I used JPG to boot. In daylight it wouldn't hold a candle to the D800 - resolution is king if the closest you can get to your subject is 3100 feet. BUT it was superb in low light. Thick glove on left hand and thin glove on right, open window in a C172, -12C and 95 knot breeze. No trouble at all. I have a lot to learn or re-learn. The 70-200 was a real surprise as there's a lot of glass between you and the ground, it worked perfectly. In daylight and especially in winter it's a bugger to autofocus in the air due, probably, to low contrast. Or something. Zero focus issues tonight. I had the Sigma 35/1.4 on my D800, great but pretty wide for what I do. And the 50/1.8 kit, when it got really dark, on the Df and equally great.
  5. Portrait orientation and elbows. (and two edits) Yes, we all know right hand on the lens and left hand on the shutter works. I think the original questioner meant left on lens and right on shutter. This is a photography forum so take a picture anyone who can do it. If you can use portrait orientation with the shutter button at the TOP and elbow on body and a FINGER on the shutter button then take a selfie and show how you do it. I can't do it without an extra elbow.
  6. I think I'm looking for the refresh rate of the Monitor. If I read the manual correctly you just get a flickerless Monitor image when in Live View - Flicker Reduction has no effect on the photo. What you see *isn't* what you get.
  7. I'm on topic, no more flashing blobs---I believe Flicker Reduction applies only to the LCD monitor, not to what you get out of the sensor. I haven't tried it myself yet. Does what you get on the Monitor, flicker wise, reflect what you'll get out of the sensor for *any* still camera?
  8. Tedious way to check shutter speed is to do a pan at night, count the blobs...etc. Quite a pain actually. Frequency is tightly controlled but voltage can wander around depending on your electron provider. Frequency is what counts. Even if you *think* that street light isn't flickering it's likely due to sheer brightness that it appears it isn't. The 1/2 sec. photo (yes, with a Df) shows this in the lower right, the pole is nicely illuminated every cycle but the luminaire looks solid. Metal halides in cheap arenas are a brute. There may be as few as 8 lamps in a small rink (say) and even if they're on alternate phases there aren't enough to illuminate the whole place at once. Hence a long shutter is needed. And with usually lousy results.
  9. This is an extension of what BjornR wrote in his initial third paragraph about loggers. GPS tagging is handy for aerial photography. No surprise there. Not drone-no-higher-than-a-tall-building photography but rather shooting from a real, live airplane as a passenger. I'm typically in a Cessna 172 - 4 seat high wing. The GP-1 (I bought it partly to imaginarily piss Bernie off, GP-1:F-1) works only about half the time, if you're lucky, due to the wing. And it's a pain in cramped quarters. And it doesn't always come alive after a bit of just looking out the window. I've used a Garmin 60cx to record the flight path for years and only recently clued into the fact that programs like GPicSync will take your GPX file and tag photo files with the relevant GPS data. The 60cx has a very high record-success rate in a plane. I set it to record every 2 seconds (or whatever) and even at 90 knots the precision and accuracy is good. I'm at 45 deg N so no issue with satellites. The track ends up looking like this (http://www.flickr.com/photos/23575605@N08/8197349979/in/set-72157632041795687) in Google earth. The program has many options to integrate photos with said track. This method is perfect for me in this one instance and doesn't require any more toys than I already had.