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Ronald M

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About Ronald M

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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  1. Ronald M


    When in college, my friends father had his stereo turntable suspended by 4 long thin springs in an adjacent closet. Best stereo I ever heard. My main photo mentor was a metalurgist and the company moved next to a busy tollroad. The scanning electron microscope had to be placed on an anti vibration support. Principle is clear. Get subject and camera to vibrate together.
  2. Ronald M

    Af Assist Dots and Af Fine Tune Help

    Auto focus/green light are auto focus system in the bottom of the mirror box. Manual focus is strictly the focus screen and my experience is that Nikon does not do a great job of coordinating the two. AF system is set well, the screen only close. Even a split image screen will not help if the screen position is off. There is an adjustment screw to raise/lower the screen on D200, 300, 700,D3 and different shims may also be used to raise lower it so the two focus systems coordinate. I have had to adjust two after installing a split screen. The difference was small but noticeable, 2" at 6 feet. You can not adjust focus manually any closer with the stock screen, green light or not.
  3. Since my original posr. I have used a 90 2.8 second version and find it outstanding. I bought mounts for 28 2.8 pc and 35 4.0 pc, Fotodiox ones. both lenses work really nicely.
  4. Ronald M

    For anyone considering to move to FX

    I see no reason to stop using my D40 and D200 now that they share a bag with my D700. Most of my work is ISO 100 and they are adequate for that. I never did fall for Pro grade zooms for DX, I got primes and a 12/24. I got 35/70 2.8 and 70/200 4~5.6 for the FX for when I really need a zoom which is not that often.
  5. Ronald M

    Re: Nikon 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G AF-S ED

    Mine is fine, but I know a wedding guy who could not use his because of soft edges. Another friend is quire happy with his.
  6. People have been using India Ink for decades. If they are large or numerous, I would keep the money. You wioo have trouble at resale time.
  7. Ronald M

    Nikon should start creating smaller lenses

    Oh my, for years people wanted fast prime, 15/200 2.8 zooms and now they complain the lenses have gotten big. When you add up the necessary corrections to make the above to modern standards, there is no way to keep them small. Add in VR & AF and you have a small canon. No way around it. Even Leica rangefinder lenses have become monsters, size and price.
  8. Infinity may be different than close up. Wide open may be different than stopped down. Different zoom lenghts may be different. And the biggie, the body and len can both be off from perfect, but within tolerence. When you add the two together, the tolerence stack up all goes in one direction. Remember they do not set the lens and body together, they go to different depts and each item is checked to be within spec, not perfect, within spec. I have seen it all.
  9. Ronald M

    a cure for my 24 1.4 lust

    next time you do a musician, focus on the hands instead for few shots and seee if you like it.
  10. Ronald M

    Landscape Shooting

    Prime lenses will capture an image in lower light because they are faster, however debth of field is smaller at large stops like 1.8 and that works against you in landscapes when you need sharp focus front to rear. A tripod is you best friend in low light because 5.6 can be used with very slow shutter speeds such as 1/8 sec. The downside here is sturdy light weight tripods are expensive. Carbon fiber are the best. Buy a cheap one and you will replace it five times. Buy a Gitzo CF reporter and it will last a life time. Been there, done that, and so have 99% of other photogs. Moving things negate the ability to use slow speeds, water, trees in wind etc. Photography is a bunch of trade offs wherever you go. Get the infrared remote release if you have a D40/60/300/5000 or the electric release for better models. The 35 1.8 is a fine lens for DX sensor cameras. It will not work as well in FX if you move up.
  11. Ronald M

    Noise in the sky

    The first answer is just a "expose to the right" which is controvercial. Basicly it is simply use a lower ISO. Make a selection of the sky and run noise reduction, blur, or median filter on the selection. This will keep from destroying details in the rest of the image.
  12. Ronald M

    Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D

    The corners are soft on FX with all the the Nikon primes I have tried from 28 to 14. Stop to 8 cures it. I tried the lenses on film and they work fine so it is not the lenses.
  13. Thanks for the warning. That said, all these little fifedoms need to be broken up. Nikon is worldwide and the same product and conditions of sale should be the same everwhere. I feel the same about automobiles. Why do we need dealers? They are the scourge of General Motors with the tricks they play. Why not have GM sell direct? Well I recently found out why, federal law. They are bared from consumer sales.
  14. Ronald M

    Scratching my glasses with F2

    Not in the +.5 diopter. +1 is discontinued. I can`t find any searching thru obscure used camera sites. http://www.nikonmall.com/pdf/Eyepiece_Compatibility_Chart_0800701.pdf
  15. Ronald M

    Scratching my glasses with F2

    I bought a new F2S last week. The corrective diopter eyepieces for the for the F2 are not available in +.5 and +1 . I can take my glasses off and use the standard zero correction. Or I can order the +.5 or +1 for the FM2 which will fit and then I can use my distance glasses which are -.5. The issue is there is no protective rubber on the correction ones because they are made to be used without glasses. Is the some way such as an eyecup where I could use + 1 and have the eyecup shield the glasses. Removing your glasss is kind of a pain. So how do I resolve this issue?

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