Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/03/20 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Sometimes a long lens is good for portraits. Thank you for looking.
  2. 4 points
    From the Sky Road near Clifden, Galway, Ireland.
  3. 4 points
    D4 & AF-s 300mm f/2.8G. Thank you for looking.
  4. 3 points
    I spend the turn of the years 19/20 in Casselman, Ontario to photograph Snowy Owls which are amongst my favourite birds. We expected and hoped for loads of snow but there was very little of it and only for three days. It was great fun anyway and I got a few images I quite like. Hope you enjoy them! Chris PS: More images here #1 white on white with not too much contrast ... not to everybodies taste but I like it #2 Peek-a-boo! #3 silent flight ... those owls fly directly in front of you only 1-2 meters away and you don't hear a single thing ... impressive and a bit scary #4 Those talons combined with silent flight ... I guess a mouse does not even realize that it's dead #5 But even Snowy Owls do not always look elegant #6 But most of the time they do ...
  5. 3 points
  6. 3 points
    X-T2, 90mm (taken through a double-glazed window)
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points
    This is a picture I treasure a lot. I'm at the top of Kala Patthar, where we can have the best view of Mount Everest and its surroundings. When we arrived at Gorak Shep, a village (?) at the base of Kala Patthar, totally exhausted from the all day hike, the guide invited us to climb it to see Mount Everest before sunset. We should rest at the lodge to head for base camp next day, but we decided to do the climb, in fact a heavy trek. I do not regret doing that, even because during the descent I had a diarrhea attack. The view was glorious. Mount Everest is the black pyramid next to the praying flags. Nuptse seems higher because of the perspective. Also the Base Camp and Khumbu Icefall can be seen at the middle left.
  10. 3 points
    My advice to everyone is to obey official advice and to STAY AWAY FROM SOCIAL MEDIA, where so much disinformation is being disseminated. Of course, this advice would also be good in normal times, but especially now.
  11. 3 points
    This morning I shut off the news, mounted my bicycle to the back of my car and headed down to the beachfront. All bathing has been banned (who knew viruses could swim?) but people are still allowed to go out and enjoy the sunshine as we draw towards the end of a very long and hot summer. I rode for about 9km along the promenade, snapping some photos with my iPhone as I went. Here's a few from the ride. Walter White has been through some wars and has eaten a nice chunk of money, but he has a new engine and most recently a new ABS pump, which cost almost as much as the engine. It's a wonderful car and I hope to keep it for a long time. The city between the dolos. This is as far as I could ride going south. I'm on the north pier of the harbour, facing north(ish). I started my ride just behind the dolos on the right. The inspiration for the title of this thread. On another pier (which I have posted photos of here many times before) sits a restaurant patron having a glass of white wine at 10:48am. Port o' Durban, my childhood home. I lived on the 5th and 6th floors of this apartment building from the age of 9 until I left home aged 22. It's definitely the most unusual and modern building design along the beachfront. We moved in a couple of years after it had been completed around 1977. I have so many memories of this building and while it has seen plenty of changes since I lived there, I bet I could still walk around it blindfolded and know exactly where I was. It faces north so in the winter time it gets pretty warm because of the floor to ceiling windows. Addington Hospital, place where I was born and currently the holding point for local people infected with CV19. I was reading this morning that about 8 or 9 of the group of people who brought the virus here from Italy and who are being treated there are taking legal action against the department of health to release them because they are asymptomatic. The health minister is denying them their release until they have been tested again, which apparently can't be done because they don't have test kits. This is a government hospital and not a place where I would want to be cooped up. It may look ok from the outside, but inside it is a mess and in a state of disrepair. Lifts don't always work and water supply is dodgy. The Bike & Bean. This is one of a few places along the promenade where you can rent a bicycle and have a cup of coffee. Normally it's a lot busier. All images taken with and edited on a 3 year old iPhone 7P. The best camera is the one you have with you.
  12. 2 points
    Using the quarentine to process some pictures from my archives that were left aside. This adventure took place in 2014. Thank you for looking. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
  13. 2 points
    Portrait of a demonstrator at the Black Country Outdoor Museum. Despite appearances in this posed shot, he was a friendly and helpful person. The main activity in this forge was making chains. In the olden days this forge would have been primarily used by a female chain maker, and situated in her back yard. The men did heavier work, but chain making was certainly very hard work.
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    Awesome skies. The second one works best for me.
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    Sent to me by my friend Christine. Who swears it isn’t her! I wouldn’t dare comment! 🤗
  18. 2 points
    A few weeks back I 'enjoyed' a field trip with the RPS to the Open University campus in Milton Keynes. I say enjoy because storm Dennis was raging at the time and I did get very wet and battered. It was nevertheless very interesting though not as productive as hoped. What did catch my eye was this extraordinary tree carving by a guy called Tom Harvey who uses a combination of chain saw and chisels. This one is called 'Reflections on the Moon'. I only had a 24-90mm lens so could not get the close up shot I wanted but fortunately it is a very sharp lens and enabled the crop and edit that I had envisaged. Here is the final image. (click on image to see it at its best in the lightbox.)
  19. 2 points
    In the past few weeks, I was experimenting with invisible ranges of light using Sigma fp. I found that the camera showed usable sensitivity to IR without modification. Also, I realized that the egg (more precisely, the egg shell) fluoresced in passionate red under UV flashlight. These are a few results of the experiments. The 1st and 2nd images were shot with Nikkor-H 50/2.0 with Fuji IR90 filter. The 3rd one was shot in the total darkness with Nikkor-O 55/1.2 a.k.a. CRT Nikkor and a 365nm UV flashlight as the only light source.
  20. 2 points
    The other thing I can’t stand about new cars is the desire to put as many controls as possible into a touch screen. They need concentration and a steady hand, neither of which are available in a moving car. And that is with a good user interface design - I’ve seen some that have terrible user interfaces that are almost impossible to use.
  21. 2 points
    Sigma sd interchangeable lens camera models prior to them jumping ship to Bayer (yawn) with the FP have an easily removable (with fingers, no tools necessary) IR-cut filter positioned just behind the lens flange, and not glued to the unique Foveon sensor itself as other sensors do. You then have a choice of visible spectrum plus IR, or with the use of an on-lens IR filter, proper infra-red photography without having to butcher the camera forever. Using RawDigger as the processor you can isolate the top sensor layer (nominally the Blue layer, but in reality it's fully panchromatic in sensitivity) to get an uninterpolated, true pixel-for-pixel B&W IR result which will challenge, and probably better any converted Bayer sensor camera in resolution. Using an R72 IR filter, it cuts through mist and haze like nobody's business (taken about a half hour apart mid-winter June 2017 - hence the differing viewpoints. From memory the mist was very much local and in the foreground, the sun was clear and shining in the background, which happens often in winter here living close to a river: For standard IR landscapes it probably gives a better IR result than large format IR film would do. Even just using a standard red filter with the IR-cut in place and isolating that top sensor layer works well enough for the black sky look: Camera used was an sd Quattro-H with IR-cut removed for second, third and fourth photos, and in place again for the last, which I was experimenting with using adapted film-era M42 Soviet and East German lenses before I got lured back into the world of standard film photography, and which is now the camera I use as my B&W film neg "scanner", also just utilising the top "B" sensor layer with RawDigger. The only thing one has to watch out for is not to drop the IR-cut filter onto a hard surface (such as a desk) when removing it - the brittleness of the glass makes eggshells appear like titanium, and the replacement ain't cheap - it's definitely a Sigma exclusive. I tried an Internet-suggested in-front-of-lens IR-cut filter while waiting for the replacement from Japan (none in stock here, of course), and it gave a really weird visible spectrum result even though it looked the same as the broken one visually.
  22. 2 points
    There are many, many ways to photograph products for online shopping sites where typically the vendors want a pure white background. Over a number of years of doing this type of work for clients I have found a method that is super efficient and doesn’t involve Photoshop editing at all. The photo on the right has been shot using the method described below and in Lightroom the editing involved adjusting 5 sliders. With this method I work exclusively in Lightroom and I only use 2 strobes and one bounce reflector (if needed). I can vary lighting for pack shots in a thousand different ways, but generally the 2 light, 1 reflector setup I use is good for most products and gives me a quick and easy means of doing what isn’t particularly stimulating work. Gear Requirements Here’s a breakdown of the gear I use for my product shots: Camera - I use the original 2013 Olympus E-M1 Lens - Sigma 60mm f/2.8 DN or Olympus 12-40/2.8 PRO Key light - Godox AD200 with X Pro transmitter on the camera Table light - Menik 500W a/c strobe bounced off my ceiling Modifiers - 70cm pop-up octo beauty dish (some nondescript Chinese brand), white polyboard for fill Shooting table Portable light stand for the key light Boom arm stand for the table light Tripod Cable release (optional) For a shooting table you can use any flat surface and a white sweep made out of fabric or paper. I happen to have a proper product shooting table but for years I used an old mobile kitchen island made out of Oregon pine with a roll of white vinyl normally used to cover baby mattresses. The results are the same, regardless of what I use. Actually, the smaller the footprint of a shooting table, the easier it will be to work around. Lighting can be done with speedlights instead of powered strobes. This was my only method when I first began doing this some 12 years ago when I used two Nikon SB-800 units. The drawbacks are obviously much less light output and if you are using AA batteries for power you will have to keep charged spares on hand. SETTING IT UP Lighting Setup As mentioned in the introduction, most of the time I use only two lights and with standard, non-reflective, non-white products this is enough. The key light I have recently begun using is the Godox AD200 which is a powerful 200W unit that runs on a high capacity rechargeable lithium ion battery and has a number of handy features, including built in 2.4Ghz wireless control and swappable heads (it comes with a fresnel head and a bare bulb, but you can also purchase a round head and other accessories like snoots and barn doors separately). I bought a Bowens mount adapter for mine that lets me use a variety of cheap Chinese made modifiers. My most recent modifier purchase is the 70cm pop-up beauty dish with a front diffuser that gives off similar light to my much bigger and more unwieldy 100x70cm pop-up softboxes. Because the Godox AD200 is relatively small and cordless, it is easy to move around the product shooting table on a smaller stand with that octobox beauty dish. If I was to use my other a/c strobes as the key light with my second 100x70cm softbox I’d have to be extra cautious to avoid tripping over the power cable. Also, with that strobe being quite large it requires a heavy duty stand with a much bigger footprint, which in turn reduces the amount of space I have to work in. Less space = more frustration and a higher likelihood of knocking things over. The position of my key light is typically at 45˚ to the subject, either side of the camera. I can vary this depending on how I want the light to strike the subject. I usually play around and see what looks best for any given product. The other light I use is an a/c powered 500W studio strobe that I either fire directly downwards towards the product table through a large modifier (such as a softbox), or if I am feeling kind of lazy I dispense with the softbox and angle the strobe up to the ceiling, using that as a big diffuser instead. Using the latter method is easier because if I have to adjust the power of the light I can reach it without having to climb on a stool to make adjustments. At some point in the near future I will probably purchase additional Godox AD units and then I’ll be able to control everything from the X Pro trigger unit without having to physically touch any of the lights once they are on. The purpose of the top light is to light the white shooting surface and eliminate shadows cast by the key light. I try to get as even a spread of light on the table top as possible so that I have less editing to do. Editing sucks, especially when there are lots of images to shoot. Camera Setup When I am shooting with off camera strobes, be they speedlights or proper studio strobes, I need to trigger them somehow. The easiest way to do this is with a radio trigger, so I use the one that fits with the Godox system, the X-Pro O (O is for Olympus or Panasonic, they also make them for Sony, Nikon, Fujifilm and Canon). Before I invested in radio triggers I used the pop up flash on my camera to trigger my other lights which have built in optical slaves. The trick to this method is to make sure that the pop-up flash is set to fire manually (not in TTL) and that it is set to its lowest possible power setting. The reason for this low power setting is because I don’t want that light from the pop-up to affect the subject in any way, but I do need it to be powerful enough to trigger the slaves on the remote lights. If it isn’t set to fire manually the TTL pre-flashes will trigger the remote strobes out of sync and exposure will be all over the place. For all of my off camera flash work I shoot only in manual mode and there are three settings that I need to lock in before I begin: ISO needs to be fixed at the camera’s native setting. For my old E-M1 that is ISO 200. If you have a lower native ISO setting on your camera, this might be a bonus for you. Aperture set to provide enough depth of field as I don’t want to be focus stacking for product shots because that adds a very time consuming additional editing step to the process. I typically shoot between f/11 and f/14 on the E-M1. My smaller MFT sensor has an advantage here because it offers greater D.O.F. than a 35mm camera does at the same exposure apertures. Shutter speed; for my camera I can sync with flash at 1/320s but I normally use 1/250s on the E-M1 because the faster speed is really on the edge and sometimes I do notice a bit of a black band appearing at 1/320. Most consumer grade cameras will probably have slower X-sync speeds. So why do I need such a fast shutter speed for a stationary subject? In flash photography ambient light exposure is controlled by the camera’s shutter speed. The faster you are able to sync your shutter speed with the flash pop, the less chance there is of any ambient light from your set up being able to affect your subject. This can include reflections of bright windows in the studio, lights with horrible colour casts, and so on. To test if I am getting any ambient light “contamination” I take a shot with all the strobes turned off. If I get a perfectly dark frame all is well, but if I see any light on the subject at maximum sync speed I will need to darken the shooting environment by drawing the curtains and turning off any ambient light sources in the room. This is where having a lower ISO native setting (like ISO100 or lower) would be useful. In the old days I would use a flash meter to get my exposure values, but honestly, in this digital age it’s really not necessary. I use the shadow/highlight indicators of my camera when reviewing the shot to see if I have any clipping. I only shoot in RAW and will therefore be able to recover a lot of image detail without clipping. The histogram isn’t that all that useful in this situation because it will show huge towers of exposure on the highlights side from the shooting surface (which is normal since I want that to blow out if possible). Having worked in the same studio space for over a decade I know from experience exactly what my camera settings need to be given my setup, so I change the power of my lights rather than the camera settings. Tethering I don’t usually do this myself, but if you are able to shoot tethered you should. This will give you a lot better indication of what your image is going to look like on a computer, plus you will be skipping the ingesting portion of working in Lightroom by shooting directly into your working catalog. It is possible to tether with an Olympus camera using their own tethering software and a dynamic folder in Lightroom. What happens is the Olympus Capture software will save all the shots taken into a specified folder. That same folder can then be added to Lightroom as a dynamic folder and as soon as new images are seen in there they are imported to the catalog. Pretty useful, albeit a little clunky. Composing Shots Composing pack shots is dead simple. It’s usually a single product, positioned at an angle to the camera, however, because these images are going to be used online, uniformity across the range is important as they will show on shopping page grids. I don’t want them looking different so keeping the same angle is very important. Top tip: I place rulers in front of the product whenever I swap it out and then line up the next product to the ruler. I could draw a line on the surface but then I’d have to edit it out. That’s more work for an already tedious job. Blech! Use a ruler. Sometimes I will need to provide more than one angle of the same product. What I do in this situation is photograph all the products in a batch at the same angle and then swap to the next angle, running through all the items again. This is just a more efficient way of doing it when there are many of the same item to shoot. The shooting height is usually customer driven, so what I have begun doing in recent times is to take a few different angles and heights, then send the unedited shots through to the customer for approval by Whatsapp. I have to be pretty clear about the fact that these aren’t the final edits though, otherwise they are likely to think they have hired a palooka! And that’s really it as far as the shooting process is concerned. This process works for most products. If a client wants me to photograph anything that is highly reflective, glass, white or translucent, I have to shoot it a different way and that gives me an opportunity to charge more (usually double). In part 2 of this tutorial I will go into the editing process in Lightroom.
  23. 2 points
    Thank, Dallas and Aguinaldo, for the comments. The digital sensors are potentially sensitive to the wavelength outside the visible range. But normally the wavelengths outside the visible ranges (both longer and shorter) are blocked by the UV/IR-cut filter placed right in front of the sensor, because they cause haze and color shift which is difficult to correct. The UV/IR-cut filters in earlier digital cameras like Nikon D2H or D40 were not efficient enough to cut these wavelengths, so they suffered from color shift (green textile rendered in brown, for example) and could shoot IR images. On the other hand, the modern digital cameras have much improved UV/IR-cut filters, and you would have to the camera modified to shoot in UV or IR. So, I took it granted that Sigma fp, one of the latest cameras, cannot be used for shooting outside the visible range. I found that Sigma fp showed some usable sensitivity to IR purely by accident when I tried some IR-pass filters on the camera on a whim. The exposure time ranges from 10sec. to 1/8sec. depending on the density of the filters, and thus you always have to use a tripod, but the resulted images are pretty amazing. The first two images were shot with Sigma fp, Nikkor-H 50mm/f2.0@f5.6, and I put a Fuji tri-acetyl-cellulose IR90 filter in front of the lens. The filter is so dense that it looks totally opaque to the naked eyes. On the other hand, the UV flashlight was used to induce fluorescence of the egg shell and the kitchen paper spread under the objects. Under UV light, the egg shell made of calcium fluoresces in reddish orange, and the paper with some fluorescent dye (in order to make it look brilliant white) in blue. The UV flashlight emits faint visible portion of light as well, which cast some shadows on the objects.
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    A general view of Ireland's Eye, during the so-called Blue Hour.
  26. 2 points
  27. 2 points
    From Howth, near Dublin City, on the East coast of Ireland. The Mountains of Mourne in the background.
  28. 2 points
    Gare TGV de Liège, Belgique.
  29. 2 points
    I have created an area here that will allow members to post and format topics before anybody else can see them. Once you make your post you may want to change the order of images or formatting of text, etc. This place will let you do that as only you and myself will be able to see the topic. Once you are happy with your post you can notify me and I will move it into the appropriate area. Or, if you are a subscriber you should be able to do this yourself (I have not tested this yet, but please let me know if it doesn't work).
  30. 2 points
    I heard of a Durham University student (ranked 133rd in the world) telling his parents he was quite safe from Covid 19 because - 'It will only come to Durham if it can't get into Oxford or Cambridge !' The Medical correspondent of Private Eye has reported that pharmacies are running out of Paracetamol first, then Viagra, and recommends 'The Wheelbarrow' as the Approved Position in a Pandemic .. 🙃 cheers, Maurice
  31. 2 points
    Many thanks to @WildClyde, @GB111, @Akira for your donations and @Mexecutioner for subscribing to Fotozones. FZ is now in a great position looking forward, thanks to the incredible generosity of this community. I have enough funding for several months hosting now, as well as the impending license renewals. I am also going to be adding a few new enhancements to the Zones area in the days ahead (there are some cool admin features I can now pay the Invision developer community for). This will allow me to move all the existing brand forums into Zones, essentially making them mini-forums in their own right. What's nice about this is that if you have no interest in a certain brand or format, you won't see those posts on your feed. It will go a long way towards negating any animosity between different brand users. I'm sure the Nikon family would like to stick to their own stuff without having to read about my Micro Four Thirds adventures, etc. It is my duty to make sure that everything here works the way it should and to encourage you all to make good use of this website to share your work, ideas and opinions on the things you are doing in photography. I am hopeful that the next few weeks will see a resurgence in participation. If you aren't getting email notices when following threads, please check your notifications settings as there are many different options there that will keep you abreast of posts being made on Fotozones. You can even get notified when members you follow make new posts. Basically, we have everything that Facebook has, only without the commercial surveillance. Speaking of Facebook, I have a non-personal account there called Foto Zones which I will use to post links of great new material that I find on here, so if you still use that social network you can friend and follow the Foto Zones account (it's not a page). Now I have to go out and do some last minute provisioning before our country goes on a 21 day lock down.
  32. 2 points
  33. 2 points
    Angry birds or punk not dead 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
  34. 2 points
    Taken with the 58mm f/0.95 Noct today. Thank you for looking.
  35. 2 points
    That's all anyone rode when I grew up in South Africa. Opposite lock and stand on the pedal and you could do the most amazing 180º skidding stops. I nearly got wiped out several times when I got my first bike in Australia with handlebar lever operated brakes. Standing on the pedal just before top dead centre did nothing but instantly drop your foot to bottom dead centre with an attendant loss of balance and running into what you were "braking" to avoid...
  36. 2 points
    I think you are confused, Vivion. I am arguing against the paranoia and hysteria reaction to this (and I am quite calm, as always, thank you very much). What we are seeing coming out of major government policies now is EXACTLY that: pointless paranoia, which I must add is largely fuelled by the media animal. Our entire world is being manipulated by those who control the mainstream and social media channels. The Cambridge Analytica scandal is a prime example of how that worked in recent times. I would not be in the least bit surprised if it comes to light that media manipulators somewhere are causing this panic so that they can buy up stock at lower prices as people lose their shit over something that to be honest, is not even worth getting concerned about. If this was an Ebola breakout then yes, it would be something to pay attention to, but it isn't Ebola and most people will recover from this virus, should they contract it. However, because so many people are now freaked out about it because of governments' response, it's highly likely that if they do get it they will bring about their own premature demise through psychosomatic acceleration. There is nothing quite as harmful as the convicted mindset.
  37. 2 points
    It is unfortunate that expert advice and logical argument seem unable to make headway against paranoia and hysteria. I'm outta this 'debate' as of now.
  38. 2 points
    The day I listen to any politician is the day you will know that my body has been snatched by aliens. Even if the mortality rate is 10% from the virus it will pale in comparison to the outbreak of civil unrest, which is surely just around the corner. When you can’t buy your essential goods because you are not allowed outside, how long will it take to break ranks and for anarchy to ensue? I can assure you it won’t take long at all. More people die on the world’s roads every day than from this virus. Has any country stopped road travel because of it? What we are witnessing now is unbridled paranoia, fueled entirely by the Mainstream media. It’s ridiculous and outright evil.
  39. 1 point
    There will be a lot more Capricorns in the world come 2021. Their generation will be called Coronials.
  40. 1 point
    Thanks for joining the Subscribers, Ron! Looking forward to seeing some posts from you.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Some more of her beautiful smile to lighten this quarentine. All with the 500mm f/5.6 Pf.
  43. 1 point
    More from quarentine times. Thank you for looking. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
  44. 1 point
    Dallas: I was happy to send something to help, but please do not stop by to visit! We are trying to get all of you "outsiders" to stay home. 😊 My best wishes to all of us. And to all, please be safe. Many locals (especially the teens and young adults) think this is all a joke. Yeh, I know, this is off topic
  45. 1 point
    Well done, Dallas. I've been to Cape Town twice, but you showed me some areas I haven't seen. And we didn't make it to the top of Table Mountain on either visit because of bad weather.
  46. 1 point
    I am glad she is doing better!
  47. 1 point
    Silly me I was in the wrong view!🥵 seems all sorted, damn it had to be something simple, that annoyingly eludes you when trying to work out the answer.
  48. 1 point
    The group at the EBC.
  49. 1 point
    Dallas, Please be very careful with that power saw. Wear goggles. Power saws can be lethal if they hit a nail or even a knot in the wood.
  50. 1 point
    I have not had much sleep in the past 48 hours. On Monday morning I woke up at about 3am for no apparent reason. Couldn’t get back to sleep. Last night at the stroke of midnight our power was cut for two hours because of the “load shedding” we are being forced to endure again as a result of the corrupt and ineffective “government” of this country. I can’t sleep if the fan isn’t blowing, so I have been awake since it went out. My neighbourhood is on its 5th two hour outage for the week at the moment. So, right now If I could force feed covid-19 to the elected plonkers running this country I would do so with gay abandon. Here’s how I remain productive during the power cuts.
This leaderboard is set to Johannesburg/GMT+02:00
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By visiting this website you are agreeing to our Terms of Use, Privacy Policy & Guidelines.