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FujiX-T1and 50-140/2.8 zoom, any opinions please.

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It is interesting how different circumstances lead to different buying patterns.   Apart from Grays of Westminster, I am not aware of any dealers in London where building a relationship would have significant benefits.  I suspect that part of this may be the high cost of running a London business, so that the focus on the bottom line is relentless.  As for grey imports, these do not seem to be a big issue here to the same extent as in the USA.  They certainly exist, but they are not something that cause much debate amongst photographers.  This may be something to do with our strong consumer protection laws (which Australia also has).

 

Consumer protection - plus the mandatory GST on all imports over AU$1,000 here. People side-slip this one sometimes in private dealings by having the seller understate the goods' value, but at their own peril in the probable fines and/or confiscation that might ensue - customs know what stuff is worth these days. Anything clearing customs here must have a value displayed, and there's not only GST but also customs handling charges applied in that AU $1,000+ instance. Because the dealer or importer brings in bulk shipments, these customs charges are similar by the container load as for a single package, and import GST is calculated on the manufacturers' wholesale price, so it's not irregular at all to find the local price to be cheaper than if importing the individual item privately.

 

The Sigma DP0 Quattro is a shining example of this at the moment. It's available at the importer's website cheaper than I can get it anywhere else by at least a couple of hundred $$. There's my other quandry at the moment - with the Fuji 100-400 lens coming up, do I blow another AU$1099 on a DP0? I swore this year would be the one in which I didn't splash three grand or more cash on photo equipment and/or guitars, but even with my existing credit at the dealer for trade-ins I think that resolution may well be blown out of the water.

Edited by Alan7140

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I think you'll like the Fuji Mike, I really do. As Alan pointed out, the learning curve takes some time and patience. However, let me give you a little advice that helped me a ton. Take time to get used to the camera. Shoot JPG at first. Fuji has put a lot of time and love into the JPG engine, and when I had my XE1, I shot JPG almost exclusively.

Don't be afraid to use the auto ISO all the way up to 6400. The XT1 can take it. Skin tones might get a little waxy at 3200 and above, so watch how much Hi ISO noise reduction it uses... or use that time to shoot RAW and process later.

Enjoy the mirrorless world and welcome! :)

Edited by gryphon1911
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Nikon D500, D700, Df, 18-140/3.5-5.6 VR, 20/2.8D, 28-105/3.5-4.5D, 50/1.8D, 60/2.8D Macro, 80-200/4.5-5.6, 300/4E PF, 35/2D,  Tamron 70-200/2.8 VC

Manual Focus Lenses:  Nikon 55/3.5 Micro pre-AI, 105/2.5 AI, ZY Mitakon Creator 85/2

Olympus PEN-F, EM5.2, Olympus 9mm f/8 Fisheye, 17/1.8, 75-300/4.8-6.7 II, Panasonic 12-32/3.5-5.6, 12-35/2.8, 35-100/2.8, Sigma 60mm f/2.8 DN Art, ZY Mitakon 25/0.95
 

http://www.bestlightphoto.net | http://www.visualohio.com | http://bestlightphoto.blogspot.com | Flickr | SCEENEINWINDOWS Project

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Actually - maybe shoot both raw and JPEG Fine when you're learning the camera. That way you'll get a feeling for the Fuji JPEGS and for how differently you can process the raws - quite often you'll end up with two completely different looking photos.

 

This'll give you a better feel for your options. For instance, the base JPEG "Provia" setting is usually very different to the base Photo Ninja raw demosaic.

 

As far as ISO higher than 6400 goes, Fuji only allows you to shoot in JPEG and the luminance NR it applies by default is absolutely horrendous. Everything looks like it's made out of wax. I've had reasonable results by circumventing their silly raw lock-out by simply underexposing using the exposure compensation dial and boosting things in the raw process.

 

It's no 135-type sensor for really high ISO quality, but with use of a good NR program you can get surprisingly good results. Photo Ninja of course comes with the well respected Noise Ninja facility and Nik's free Dfine 2 is also good once you work out the somewhat obscure controls (investigate "Reduce" after Selecting and Measure a Manual NR area).

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Actually - maybe shoot both raw and JPEG Fine when you're learning the camera. That way you'll get a feeling for the Fuji JPEGS and for how differently you can process the raws - quite often you'll end up with two completely different looking photos.

 

This'll give you a better feel for your options. For instance, the base JPEG "Provia" setting is usually very different to the base Photo Ninja raw demosaic.

 

As far as ISO higher than 6400 goes, Fuji only allows you to shoot in JPEG and the luminance NR it applies by default is absolutely horrendous. Everything looks like it's made out of wax. I've had reasonable results by circumventing their silly raw lock-out by simply underexposing using the exposure compensation dial and boosting things in the raw process.

 

It's no 135-type sensor for really high ISO quality, but with use of a good NR program you can get surprisingly good results. Photo Ninja of course comes with the well respected Noise Ninja facility and Nik's free Dfine 2 is also good once you work out the somewhat obscure controls (investigate "Reduce" after Selecting and Measure a Manual NR area).

 

Good points, I was just thinking to keep it simple before diving into all the options.


Nikon D500, D700, Df, 18-140/3.5-5.6 VR, 20/2.8D, 28-105/3.5-4.5D, 50/1.8D, 60/2.8D Macro, 80-200/4.5-5.6, 300/4E PF, 35/2D,  Tamron 70-200/2.8 VC

Manual Focus Lenses:  Nikon 55/3.5 Micro pre-AI, 105/2.5 AI, ZY Mitakon Creator 85/2

Olympus PEN-F, EM5.2, Olympus 9mm f/8 Fisheye, 17/1.8, 75-300/4.8-6.7 II, Panasonic 12-32/3.5-5.6, 12-35/2.8, 35-100/2.8, Sigma 60mm f/2.8 DN Art, ZY Mitakon 25/0.95
 

http://www.bestlightphoto.net | http://www.visualohio.com | http://bestlightphoto.blogspot.com | Flickr | SCEENEINWINDOWS Project

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Quite so - but it doesn't hurt to have the raw file as well - there might be the shot in a million in the first batch of tryouts, which would be a real annoyance if it were only 8-bit jpeg. :(

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What a super conversation this is and long may it continue1

 

Alan you can put the trumpet away now.  :D


Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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Well the nice man from Parcel Force delivered my box at 0900 which was nice and early, super. 

 

I can't yet get over the size or lack of size to be honest Wow. Had a good old fiddle for a while as you would expect as and I have been told  an awful lot to learn but hey that's the fun part. Battery on charge for a while, which allows me to get back to the keyboard.

 

Firmware is 4.10 so I assume there is no need to change that for the time being? Obviously need to register with Fuji soon, I'm going to enjoy this little machine I just know it. time for a cup of tea I reckon.

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Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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Mike, congratulations.  The graphite version is elegant, it did not exist when I acquired my X-T1.

 

4.10 is the latest firmware for the camera.  There was a 4.20 in December, but that had bugs, so Fuji brought out 4.21 to roll it back.  It would not be a good idea to update until the next firmware release.  Fortunately, I had not got round to updating to 4.20.

 

This page sets out the current position on firmware for cameras and lenses. http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/fw_table.html    One of the nice things about Fuji is that they release firmware updates which other manufacturers would hold back for new models.  It helps to keep customer loyalty. 

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Yep, that was my first impression - the lack of size. Even though I owned the X-Pro1, the X-T1 is not as long and the main body (aside from the viewfinder hump and dial tops) is also a bit lower.

 

Fitting an L-bracket improves the way it fills your hand no end, plus adds substantially to the imperviousness of the thing to knocks and bumps.

 

Look forward to seeing some photos as you get the chance.

 

You only have a week or two to wait for the new firmware as well - they've posted end of January as the target date. As usual I'll post a heads-up when I get notice of its release.

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Thanks Anthony, I have seen that web page, so that is good.

 

A question if you don't mind, what sort of USB cable is required to connect the camera to my iMac, none of mine have the right connector and Fujifilm don't say what sort is required only to buy one?

 

This photo although absolutely awful is a straight download from Lr with no processing, not bad quality from a raw upload!

 

post-2059-0-68779000-1453117358_thumb.jp


Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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Thanks Anthony, I have seen that web page, so that is good.

 

A question if you don't mind, what sort of USB cable is required to connect the camera to my iMac, none of mine have the right connector and Fujifilm don't say what sort is required only to buy one?

 

This photo although absolutely awful is a straight download from Lr with no processing, not bad quality from a raw upload!

 

post-2059-0-68779000-1453117358_thumb.jp

 

Through a window


Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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So bad I did it twice.  :blush:


Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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Mike, the cable required is Micro USB.

 

I always plug the SD card directly into the slot in the back of the iMac, as this operates at USB 3 speed and is much faster to download.

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Tony (and Mike), good luck in your deliberations.  There is no doubt that the X-T1 would make an excellent travel camera and a lighter weight alternative to your Nikons.

 

Tony, given that your intended target uses are for travel and use in conjunction with your motor cycling, do not overlook the Olympus OMD E-M1 with the excellent 12-40mm and 40-150mm Pro Series lenses.  Chuck in the TC for the 40-150mm zoom and you have the basis for a very powerfull two lens camera kit.  Add in the new 7-14mm Pro lens or the older 9-18mm wide angle zoom, and wide angle is covered for most situations.  The FL600 flash is also reasonably powerful and compact.

 

Whilst I do not wish to talk you out of the Fuji X-T1, there are a number of worthwhile combinations from both Olympus and Panasonic over in the M43 camp that could meet your stated needs.  If you can wait, I strongly suspect that both the X-T2 and the OMD E-M1 MkII technology updates/refreshes are likely to emerge later on this year.

 

I guess the good news is that there a number of worth while solutions available to you just now.

 

 

...........................................

 

I'm anticipating more travel type photography(Europe), the smaller kit would be less of a hindrance

and far more portable especially when traveling by motorcycle.

 

Any thoughts much appreciated.

 

cheers

tony

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Thank you Anthony, Yep I have used the iMac rear slot as well but with my set up it's a bit of a faff, plus I don't like not knowing.  :D

 

I use a card reader at this time and the card showed up on the desktop almost instantly, just wish the weather was better so I could have a wander about but hey ho!

 

I'm going to like this little camera enormously and even from my very brief encounters I can see some very lumpy Nikon gear heading off in PX for some more Fuji stuff! It has taken me 15 minutes to twig that the little supplied flash does't need a battery in it DOH.  :blush:

 

The graphite model is extremely sexy, so I'm glad I stumped up the extra dosh to get it.

 

Hugh you're a bit late I'm afraid  plus I have never liked Olympus even since the Olympus OM 1,2,3 and 4 days and still don't , I know Dallas raves about their stuff but I don't think I could live with it. many years ago I had to rid myself of a load of Canon gear for the same reason, cost me a fortune, good job the wife never found out!!!

Edited by Mike G

Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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Olympus gets overlooked a lot by people looking for the kind of system Tony wants. I've never used an X-T1 so I can't compare, but having used the E-M1 for over 2 years now, I can honestly say that there isn't much I can't (and don't) do with that little camera. And I can use my preferred Lightroom to process the images. 

 

The one thing that has made a big difference to my work since moving over from the Nikon D700 is that I really don't have to do too much to the images in post. I only do minor changes and I never sharpen. 

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Post processing was one of the things that beginning to disillusion me with Nikon, also they get more costly at every step the D5 is a point in question! The PP work was pissing me off just trying to gat a sharp photo, no doubt due to my lack of skill. the purchase of the XT-1 will probably be a stopgap until the XT-2 is released. Luckily I don't have to make a living from my camera(damn good job too)

 

In truth the D810 is lost on me way too much overkill really and expensive of course, my Nikkor 300mm f4 Pf lens alone would have funded a black XT-1 and two lenses. 

 

You'll have to watch out now the Fuji gang is coming.  :D

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Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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Vivian, I totally agree with you seems to me especially as a non driver that to move a D5 and stuff around large 4X4 would be required and my few bits weighs a ton to carry around hence the search for a smaller system, didn't like the look of Olympus stuff, Sony seemed to have QC issues So I ended up at Fuji's door! mainly due to Alan's and Anthony's enthusiasm and postings.

 

I also don't like the XQD memory cards way too expensive! pretty sure that the D810 replacement will have them! Also with the Fuji I can see the whole viewfinder window even with glasses, big plus.

Edited by Mike G

Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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I have noted that Ann, but I believe it involves a return to Nikon to get them changed, and a charge for doing so! I seem to recall reading about a charge of £150, but not sure about that?

 

i'm sure you are a person who will get a lot out of a D5 as obviously it will become a valuable too for you in your commercial enterprises!

Edited by Mike G

Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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Thanks Anthony, I have seen that web page, so that is good.

 

A question if you don't mind, what sort of USB cable is required to connect the camera to my iMac, none of mine have the right connector and Fujifilm don't say what sort is required only to buy one?

 

This photo although absolutely awful is a straight download from Lr with no processing, not bad quality from a raw upload!

 

attachicon.gifNeighbours.jpg

 

Hi Mike you need a Micro-B USB cable to connect to an iMac.

 

Cheers Daniel

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Thanks Daniel got that lead now, don't understand why Fuji doesn't include one ?


Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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I could swear that my Fuji cameras came with that cable (which is largely backed by the number of these cables, none of which I have ever bought separately that I have here).

 

Maybe Fuji has joined the modern trend of not including any cables that was started by TV manufacturers as a result of their cut-throat price wars.

 

Or I could be wrong - I never connect my camera directly to the computer via cable so I don't know if these did appear with the cameras. I've had dramas in the past where a slight bump or mere glitch in the cable caused a micro-second interruption and completely corrupted the entire data stream. This happened only a few weeks ago when I was doing my annual backing up and duplications to external drives, when just such a thing caused a corruption of an entire 2TB drive's file table and effectively rendered both the drive and the data thereon to be invisible to any computer. Took quite some messing about to get things on track and salvage the data, the only error message advice being to "format drive" (!!!), all the while not knowing whether or not recovery would even be possible.

I have always used an internally mounted USB card reader for all my camera-computer data "connections".

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Alan i too have used the card reader avenue ever since Nikon got rid of a mass storage mode! Strangely I received two power cables one British and one Continental! but no USB jobbie, odd I managed to get one quite easily actually a Blackberry one (remember them).

 

As Anthony said the iMac has a built in SD card slot round the back, a bit inconvenient but I have used it!

 

Nothing like cutting costs and penny pinching is there! :yes:

Edited by Mike G
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Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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Mike, a working lifetime with my wallet effectively controlled by photographic equipment resellers and manufacturers has made me a master of penny pinching and improvisation. You should see the ring-flash adapter I am currently gathering bits to build - the supermarket plastic storage containers display and other kitchenware shelves have been receiving my undivided attention.... :) :)

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Alan I know that feeling and necessity is the mother of invention, you never know it may make you a millionaire,  :yes:  :D  :no:


Mike Gorman

 

Lumix G9 , GX8 - Leica 12, 15, 20, 25, 42.5 - 8-18, 12-60, 35-100, 45-175

 

 

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