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Nikon V1 IR conversion

nikon v1 infra-red conversion

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#21 renaud

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 07:45

The only part I'm hung up on is having to craft my own custom IR filter. I wish there was something commercially available pre-cut. That would make this this project a lot more accessible for me...


Well, you're in luck: there are commercially available solutions. I got my pre-cut filter from Kolari vision, and I'm pretty sure any of the usual conversion shops will be glad to cut one of their filters to your specifications for a few dollars if you ask.

Edited by renaud, 22 December 2012 - 07:52 .


#22 jaryk66

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 05:40

Thank you for this manual. I did it exactly according to your instructions and it runs fantastically. Only instead of using an internal filter I use external Hoya R72, so the normal camera functions have kept.
Here are my first pics:
https://plus.google....689307482990097

Edited by jaryk66, 22 March 2013 - 05:42 .


#23 renaud

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 07:27

Glad to know the instructions helped.
Did you leave the sensor "naked" or did you put some glass where the IR-cut was? I know the sensor is protected by thick glass, but I was under the impression (from other discussions) that the IR-cut filter was part of the optical design, and its absence could make the camera near-sighted.

#24 jaryk66

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 15:09

I leave the sensor naked, no problem with near-sighted.

#25 nfoto

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 16:21

Well, the example photos do indicate there is a slight unsharpness towards the background. This is to be expected for a "naked" sensor.

Because the focal lengths of these lenses are short, there is plenty of depth of field to mask the shift in real focus.
Bjørn

#26 joefitz

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 05:42

Wow. Thanks!
I got a V1 several months ago in the fire sale and come to love it despite it's MAJOR quirks. I've built up a system, and was pondering a cheap used/refurb J1 to convert to IR, until i found your post.
I got the 720mm filter from kolari cause i'm too lazy to cut and clean my own properly, and found an inexpensive second V1 body to convert. Took about 45 minutes including time to debug and fix a 'lens error' issue when i reassembled (loose wire i had to push in place)

I've shot at least a thousand frames in the past few days. Check out a few here:
http://500px.com/joefitzdotnet

Edited by joefitz, 31 March 2013 - 05:42 .


#27 renaud

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Posted 03 April 2013 - 16:05

Took about 45 minutes including time to debug and fix a 'lens error' issue when i reassembled (loose wire i had to push in place)

 

May I ask, which wire it was? Someone might encounter the same problem and find it helpful.

 

And while we're dealing with conversion problems, I converted another V1 (to full spectrum), and found that the rubber eyepiece is very easy to tear. I had no problem the first time, but wasn't so lucky this time. Not a huge deal but be extra careful when pulling it. There are two large clips on the sides, and a few small ones on the top and bottom. The side ones are quite difficult to dislodge, and the rubber is very thin next to the diopter adjustment.


Edited by renaud, 04 April 2013 - 09:59 .

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#28 Dennis Ng

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 06:35

May I ask, which wire it was? Someone might encounter the same problem and find it helpful.

 

And while we're dealing with conversion problems, I converted another V1 (to full spectrum), and found that the rubber eyepiece is very easy to tear. I had no problem the first time, but wasn't so lucky this time. Not a huge deal but be extra careful when pulling it. There are two large clips on the sides, and a few small ones on the top and bottom. The side ones are quite difficult to dislodge, and the rubber is very thin next to the diopter adjustment.

 

May I ask where you get this filter?  I am actually thinking getting a Canon 600D/6D for doing UV as I cannot find any Nikon handy guy here to do it for me.  However, a US$400 (camera plus shipping in the filter) for testing I might try it.  Quite like to do a full spectrum first though.  Also, does the clear filter also mean it is no AA as well?



#29 joefitz

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Posted 24 April 2013 - 06:02

May I ask, which wire it was? Someone might encounter the same problem and find it helpful.

 

bundle of 5 cables inside black heatshrink tubing, runs from the right of the viewfinder, across to the left under the viewfinder, then down to a white front-attach plug. it plugs/unplugs by coming straight out from the board, not up towards the top of the camera, which is how i might have strained the retention mechanism. It may have been a cable you left in place, I found that mine was too tight and i had to remove all cables to access the sensor plate.

 

Also, I've taken a ton more pictures, including several stitched panoramas. Many of them here: http://500px.com/joefitzdotnet

 

If anyone else wants to do any channel swapping, i found this thread/plugin helpful, along with the changes i made in my post: http://www.flickr.co...57626301320867/

 

-joefitz



#30 Earlgrey

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 18:25

I've just completed a conversion only to find that the camera is saying "Check lens.  Camera can only take photos when a lens is attached".  I wonder if this is the same message Joefitz suffered from.  I didn't detach the wire bundle mentioned, just removing the sensor assembly from under the board.



#31 nfoto

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 18:29

Isn't there a "shoot without lens" option?  Also, try video mode to see if the camera behaves differently (the 1V1 I tested did so as I was able to shoot video footage with a Rodenstock lens lacking any kind of communication to the camera).


Bjørn

#32 Earlgrey

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Posted 15 May 2013 - 12:19

nfoto - Regretably, no.  I can't help but worry that in accessing the sensor I have inadvertently damaged a connection.  Problem is, which one.  It's frustrating when the connections to the circuit board all seem to be slightly different in the way they connect and lock.  I'm going back in tonight to disconnect and reconnect everything.  Also I left off the clip frame around the dust shaker assembly when I removed it and wonder whether that may have made a difference.



#33 Andrea B.

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Posted 15 May 2013 - 13:07

Earlgrey - been there, done that - by which I mean I have messed up the reconnections more than once when closing up a camera after conversion - D300, D700 and D7000. Somethimes the stuff looks like it is properly connected, but it isn't. So as you plan to do, I just opened up the camera and went in and detached/reattached all connections and cables. I hope that works for you.

 

I did, however, manage last year to break two D7000 cams in a row when trying to convert them. What happened was that even though I did wear my little spark bracelet connected to a proper spark mat, I blew out the power board in one body. I have no idea why I did that. Never did figure out what I did to the other body. So off to Nikon they went. Repairs didn't cost me too much, thankfully.

**********

 

Removing the clip frame and dust shaker should not affect anything involving the lens. After all, the retail conversion shops all remove the dust shakers.

**********

 

Also noted above was something about underexposure in IR. Your converted IR camera will not be able to meter properly in IR because metering is, quite naturally, made to work for Visible wavelengths only. How far off the IR metering is will depend on the camera/lens, the ambient light of your scene and what IR filter you have chosen. After you use your IR cam for a while, you will get a feel for how you need to adjust the exposure compensation. It could go either way, too. You can see up to 2 stops difference either way in IR.

Hope this helps!

**********

 

Joefitz - some nice work there. I do hope to see you post a photo or two here in Nikongear's IR section also!!!


Andrea B.
UltravioletPhotography.com


#34 Earlgrey

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Posted 15 May 2013 - 21:17

Andrea B - Many thanks for your advice.  I disassembled and reassembled again tonight.  Unfortunately the same error occurs and advises now of a lens error - contact your local nikon service centre.  I've learnt a lot from the experience not least how many different types of connections they use, even when dealing with ribbon connectors!  Some of the connectors were very difficult to detach and I do worry I caused some damage to the ribbons.  Alternatively, as you say I may have caused a partial short,  I have a local nikon repair centre and will give them a call to see what they advise.  I got the filter from Kolari but as I live in the UK I decided to try a DIY conversion.  Probably bit off more than I should.



#35 Andrea B.

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Posted 15 May 2013 - 21:46

Well, shoot-dang !! This does happen sometimes in spite of our best efforts.

 

Do you recall if you had to break any soldered connection to get inside the camera? If so, did you resolder it?

 

OTOH, I wonder if the smaller cams aren't perhaps a bit more "delicate" ?? I had my D200, D300 and D700 all apart multiple times with no problems other than the occasional ribbon not quite properly reseated, but those cams were robustly constructed. When I was messing about with the D7000s, I did think they might have been a little more delicate inside.

 

I hope it does not cost you too much to repair your V1. You can ask Nikon repair not to replace the removed ICF filter because you want to use your camera for UVIR. They honored that request here on one of my cameras sent in for cleaning and a minor repair. Then at least your conversion work will not be lost.

 

Don't give up!! UV and/or IR photography is so much fun!!


Andrea B.
UltravioletPhotography.com


#36 Erik Lund

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 09:43

Yep it's a nightmare with all of those different and fragile flat cable connectors!

 

To me it sound maybe like there is a problem with the lens stop pin contact but I don't know these little cameras.

 

As Andrea states; the D200 and D300 definitely looks a bit more solid in there internal design...

 

Good luck with the little camera!

 

This thread should be moved to IR section.



#37 renaud

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 13:48

Earlgrey, sorry to hear about your problem. I'm afraid Nikon Service will ask for more than the price of the camera even for a simple fix. However the V1 will normally shoot without a lens in full manual mode. Have you tried setting yours to M? It won't fix the problem, but at least you might be able to use your camera, although I don't know if this suits your shooting style.

 

Just thinking aloud: the wire bundle, that caused a similar problem to joefitz, is attached to the main board on the left, runs under the viewfinder and dives into the entrails of the camera on the right to connect to... something else, probably related to the lens mount judging by the error message. This connection is right next to the dust shaker plug that you had to remove. If my memory serves this requires a bit of effort and some wiggling, so the bundle might have been touched in the process. Did you check this connection as well?

 

Erik Lund - I agree with you, and I originally posted this to the IR section. One of the administrators decided to move it to the "featured posts", for which I am grateful, but somewhere along the process the link pointing to this thread from the IR section was severed.


Edited by renaud, 16 May 2013 - 13:59 .


#38 ericb

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 11:46

Sorry to resurrect an older post.

 

I have a pair of V1's and was thinking about a conversion to allow IR use.  My plan is to convert it to full spectrum and then use IR filters depending on the scene.  My goal is to enable conventional use with visible light, or by using an IR filter to have IR images in my choice of spectrum.

 

Are there issues with UV/IR light under for typical visible light images?  Can I use the camera conventionally?

 

Is it possible to use the V1 converted in this manner with kit lenses for UV with the appropriate filters?

 

The ability to use the electronic viewfinder a custom WB and possibly a monochrome picture control is appealing.  I should be able to "see" IR images in the camera.  And the issues of IR focus shift are gone since AF is using contrast detect AF.


Eric

#39 nfoto

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 13:14

You can use the camera "conventionally" provided you put a UV/IR blocking filter over the lens. However, colours will be badly off and in order to get a satisfactory final colour balance, you need to make a correction profile for the V1. This is a breeze using a ColorChecker [Passport or equivalent panel] and appropriate software (PhotoNinja or similar). Store a few profiles for your normal light situations or make a session profile on the fly by snapping a picture of the colour patch panel before you commence a shoot.

 

I assume the sensor of the V1 will record both IR and UV but won't guarantee as I haven't used the camera in that manner myself. However, NG member 'renaud' apparently gets good IR output from his V1.

 

There is one caveat that should be kept in mind, though. Precise focusing with the V1 is a nightmare unless you have superfast lenses and even then it can be a challenge. The inexplicable lack of a focus magnifying feature explains why focusing can be a challenge. Actually thus is my main objection to the V1 as such. One could always have wanted a bigger/better sensor but then the camera system likely would have been much bigger (which is what I think Nikon should have done, nevertheless. The V1 is overly small and is difficult to hold still due to its low mass and small size). The bad EVF ought to be something they could remedy if pressure is put to bear on Nikon (or so I hope).


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#40 bjornthun

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 14:49

For Nikon to figure out that they should abandon the "Nikon1" series altogether and make DX/FX mirrorless cameras alongside and compatible to the DSLR line with proper EVFs and focus peaking will unfortunately take its' time. :-(
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Bjørn T





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