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How to mount paper prints ?


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#21 Rags

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 17:27

You can't use *any* board if you are worried about permanence... And a print can and will still *ripple* under many circumstances...
Too much ink on paper
Too much humidity, print *fixed* to mat board
particularly on thinner papers and less expensive (as in cheap) papers
Corners used, put on too tightly
etc...


So on framed pieces; foamboard back - sized to frame, image heat pressed to foam - positioned to cut front matte board surround, placed within glassed frame

Is that the order?

Rags

#22 Ann

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 19:19

For general public Exhibits, I don't think anyone pays too much attention to the foam edges (as long as they were cut cleanly) but you can always blacken them with a Fibre-tipped Pentel if they worry you.

For attachment to walls and travelling exhibition back-boards, we normally use Velcro with as many blocks or buttons of it as are necessary to support the size of the print.

Art Galleries are different and most of them require that prints which will be hung and offered for sale be both framed and glazed.
Some galleries also offer Folders which hold un-framed but mounted and matted prints for potential buyers to leaf through.

#23 Rags

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 19:51

For general public Exhibits, I don't think anyone pays too much attention to the foam edges (as long as they were cut cleanly) but you can always blacken them with a Fibre-tipped Pentel if they worry you.

For attachment to walls and travelling exhibition back-boards, we normally use Velcro with as many blocks or buttons of it as are necessary to support the size of the print.

Art Galleries are different and most of them require that prints which will be hung and offered for sale be both framed and glazed.
Some galleries also offer Folders which hold un-framed but mounted and matted prints for potential buyers to leaf through.


Do you print to the edge or leave a white border?

Rags

#24 Ann

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 20:07

I print to the narrowest available margins and mount on a board which is larger than the print..
Then I trim though both print and board together (with an Exacto knife and a steel edge) to leave a Flush-mounted result.

I never print "Edgeless" because it makes too much mess inside the printer.

I normally Dry-mount (as described by Fred) but for really large 40" x 30" prints which are too large for my Press, I have had to use spray cements which are horrible things because they are both messy and employ highly toxic solvents that need to be used in a very well ventilated location.

Edited by Ann, 30 August 2012 - 20:07 .


#25 Warrenvon

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 16:47

Armando is using "foamcore" as his backer board and "sprayment" for his adhesive. This can be very effective for light weight and informal exhibitions or as he is using it, in his home.

 

He seems to live in what just might be a very humid area. this can and will impact his mounting as he is using different types of paper and board. They will, if permanently attached, tend to not stay flat. he is not having this problem but is seeing the two materials separating and surface warping. This is because his sprayment is not a permanent type of adhesive . . it is the repositionable type. There is also a permanent sprayment but it is not repositionable

.

Had he used the more permanent non-repositionable type of sprayment then his mounting just might have warped instead.

 

So the bottom line is as follows:

1. use the permanent type of sprayment and most likely suffer board warpage.

2. display only in a more controlled environment.

3. go to a mounting technique that allows the mount and the image paper to move independently of each other as discussed above.

 

First give a try to the permanent non-positional sprayment. If you try this, don't try to precut both the print and the mount. Mount the untrimmed print to an oversized board.  Then trim them both at the same time with a fresh mat cutting blade to the final size. This will force the print edges to make a very strong bond to the board.

 

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE MAT CUTTING BLADE BE A FRESH ONE AND VERY SHARP OR IT WILL TEAR THE FOAM and not cut it cleanly. 

 

This will solve your prints getting loose from the board but may now tend to force the assembly to warp as a whole.



#26 Ann

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 18:44

In addition to Foamcore, there is a product here in the USA called Gatorboard which is much more stable under varying levels of humidity but it is heavier and more expensive than regular foamcore.

#27 FrankF

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Posted 14 November 2013 - 21:28

I mounted a few prints but my method didn't last long ...

I used a foam cardboard , it seems to be 2 thick white papers with foam in the middle, sorry I do not know the name of it, I think it is convenient because it is rigid and light

Got some "artist cement" it says on the can "used to mount photos and posters", quite nice, because when dry it can be peeled of in case you get some where your are not supposed to have it , and also the paper can be re-positioned quite easily if needed, once dry it doesn't move

Problem is , the prints are becoming undulated, not terribly so, but I do not like it

the prints are on Epson Enhanced matte paper

problem is apparent on large and small prints,

I'll need to redo the prints, but I want it to last longer than 2 weeks looking good :)

At least these are in my house not in any exposition

I'll appreciate any suggestions or pointers you may have

 

 

I employ a company in Neuss who laminate it on Aluminium Dibond and then Laminate the result under UV-foil.

 

The procedure is about 150 Euro per Squaremeter and I would not recommend to do it alone without many years of experience and specialized machinery. The results however look really great and seem to be mechanically and chemically stable for many years.

 

F.


Edited by FrankF, 14 November 2013 - 21:28 .

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#28 dslater

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Posted 22 November 2013 - 13:34

Armando,

  If I were you and could swing a used dry-mount press, I'd get a press and try dry-mounting. I don't think anyone above has mentioned this, but once you get the hang of it, dry-mounting your prints is fun and rewarding.

  At least that's my experience.

 

Dan



#29 Lars Hansen

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 10:04

I use Kappafix (a foamcore board). Works like a charm.
http://www.3acomposi...ex.php?cmd=2#14
It has one adhesive surface which is actually easy to use with a bit of practice.

cheers
afx

 

Andreas - I'm considering your solution. Where do you buy these in Germany? In Denmark I've only found them a few places but the available sizes are far to big and impractical - I print A3 size.       

 

Thanks.



#30 afx

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 11:50

Andreas - I'm considering your solution. Where do you buy these in Germany?

I buy them at Bösner, an art supply store. Luckily for me a store is nearby, but the also have online stores in Denmark:
http://www.boesner.dk/
Hmm, but in contrast to the German site (http://www.boesner.com/) I do not find Kapafix on the Danish site, only the hangers for it?

cheers
afx
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#31 gryphon1911

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 12:40

I've always just had the pro labs I've had my prints done at do the foamcore mounting.

 

Not as cost effective as DIY, but if you don't want to deal with it yourself, it might be worth the cost to just let the lab do it.


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#32 armando_m

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 13:22

I did some myself and some I asked the lab to mount on the foam core

 

Mine started to get undulated and look awful after some time, the lab job has not changed


Regards,
Armando 
 


#33 Lars Hansen

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 13:30

I buy them at Bösner, an art supply store. Luckily for me a store is nearby, but the also have online stores in Denmark:
http://www.boesner.dk/
Hmm, but in contrast to the German site (http://www.boesner.com/) I do not find Kapafix on the Danish site, only the hangers for it?

cheers
afx

 

Thanks Andreas - I actually found one online shop in Denmark that have the A3 size but Boesner in Germany is much cheaper. I'll try and contact Boesner.

 

Andrew - a pro lab is to far away from where I live and I'd like to try the DIY way.  



#34 afx

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 13:33

Lars, use bigger boards than A3 and cut them yourself. The size I use can support 4 A3+ prints.

cheers
afx
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#35 Lars Hansen

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 13:34

I did some myself and some I asked the lab to mount on the foam core

 

Mine started to get undulated and look awful after some time, the lab job has not changed

 

Thanks for the tip Armando - could it be due to different qualities of the foam core? Was it Kapafix you used yourself?



#36 armando_m

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 14:06

The undulation is likely the combination of my poor technique, quality of the boards, not using kapafix , I tried a few times, most images are not in the wall anymore , I had them re-printed and mounted by the lab.

 

I lack the space at home to do this properly, otherwise I'm invading the kitchen or living room tables and they do not last more than 1 day unmolested, so I gave up.

 

On the other hand , I have a lab close by, they do good quality prints and charge a very low  fee to mount them, so it is way more practical for me  to use their services


Regards,
Armando 
 


#37 Ann

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 14:38

In the USA, we can buy regular Foamcore which is both light-weight and cheap; and which consists of a sandwhich of foam between outer layers of paper. This is useful for a temporary and short-lived display or for an exhibit which needs to be easily transported.

For greater longevity, I would choose the plastic-surfaced longer-lasting (but heavier and more expensive) Gatorboard instead; or have a lab mount or print the photographs onto aluminium sheets.

For mounting, I use my heated Ademco dry mounting press for anything up to about 20" x 16" (hot dry-mounting with shellac-tissue is still the cleanest and most permanent method). For larger prints than that, I have always resorted in the past to using the two-coated permanent spray cement process to mount photographic prints.

I loathe the spray-cement process because it is messy and the vapours from the solvent are highly toxic so you really need to work in a very well ventilated area like a garage with the doors open.

#38 FrankF

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Posted 08 May 2014 - 15:13

Kappa will stain after a while Aludibond will be stable for a much longer period.

 

Plasticfoam is made of Polymers that are not stable over long peiods of time. Light and Oxygen and Ozone degenerate them.

 

Natuaral fabric like unbleached cotton from Hahnemühle will last forever practically and you can print directly on their Canvasses or on Photorag. Later you can still mount these materials to Aludibond.

 

We are speaking about 200 Euro per SQM now


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#39 56 DIN

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Posted 09 May 2014 - 17:37

Kappa will stain after a while Aludibond will be stable for a much longer period.

 

Plasticfoam is made of Polymers that are not stable over long peiods of time. Light and Oxygen and Ozone degenerate them.

 

 

interesting - the inner part of Kappa or Centa  is the same urethane as between the alu foils of the dibond  :dontknow:

 

 

Natuaral fabric like unbleached cotton from Hahnemühle will last forever practically and you can print directly on their Canvasses or on Photorag. Later you can still mount these materials to Aludibond.

 

why paying for a super flat surface of aluminium, if the print surface is cotton?  cotton has to be stretched not laminated

 

 

coming back to the Kappa options:  the self adhesives of these series will not keep strong paper, f.e. aquarell paper with is own sense of direction, strong card board of which  the elongination factor regarding humidity is strongly different and not keep any textiles for long, especially if they contain wax or surface treatment

you can  mount  thin paper, silk, pictures printed on paper below 200gr, otherwise you have to take the uncoated ones and add your own glue  f.e. Planatol  paper mount acid free

 

in the thermo vaccum press you can easily use mdf board, beeing as flat as dibond, but cheaper than card board - from 3mm - 10mm

By using the adhesive foil, you separate the picture and the non acid free MDF, it is not necessary, like f.e. using cheap frames ( Ikea or Nielsen, etc.) to put in an acid free paper as a blocker

 

MDF and Centa are optional available with black cernel, so you do not need to paint the outside, if you hang it unframed - an unpayable advantage if you are in a hurry


Thomas

#40 FrankF

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 06:17

Did I just mistake Kappa and Forex?

Most businesses have a good idea of who they are and what they want to become, but only a faint idea of how they can communicate their identity and services to their future customers. With custom tailored concepts photography and text I provide this connection effectively. My company: http://fotokontext.de/

 

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