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green heron


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#1 bobfriedman

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 17:09

Nikon D4 ,Nikkor AF-S 600mm f/4G ED VR
1/1250s f/7.1 at 1000.0mm iso1000
Posted Image

Nikon D4 ,Nikkor AF-S 600mm f/4G ED VR
1/1600s f/7.1 at 1000.0mm iso1600
Posted Image

Nikon D4 ,Nikkor AF-S 600mm f/4G ED VR
1/1600s f/7.1 at 1000.0mm iso1100
Posted Image

Nikon D4 ,Nikkor AF-S 600mm f/4G ED VR
1/1250s f/7.1 at 1000.0mm iso500
Posted Image

Edited by bobfriedman, 10 August 2012 - 19:26 .

bob

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#2 Andrea B.

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 21:06

aha!! Now I see better those differences between this guy and the Least Bittern. "-)

You're getting some interesting bird shots, Bob.

I wonder if you moved the Sat slider up one notch on the Picture Control....how would that look?
Or, alternately, the Contrast slider up one notch. These and the Bittern are ever so slightly
washed out. The green on a G. Heron, while dark, is still colourful in good light like this.
I do understand it is always a trade-off about revealing detail in bird plumage and
keeping contrast/saturation adequate. So, just curious about your thoughts on this?

Andrea B.
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#3 Ann

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 21:35

Bob:

These are much better — chiefly because you have been able to get that much closer than you were to the Least Bittern.

I am at opposite poles to Andrea here because I prefer to neutralize ALL Picture Controls, shoot RAW 14-bit UNcompressed and use independent full-featured software (which is totally blind to all of those rather useless Picture Controls — except WB) to process my RAW files.

Also, did you have VR switched on?

I have found that VR does hideous things to the bokeh of any vertical objects (like reeds and grasses) in the background.

I now avoid VR like the plague unless I am hand-holding at shutter speeds slower than about 1/150 (depending on the FL of the lens).

#4 wildoat

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 22:08

Bob these are great captures of rare birds.
I'm not claiming to be an expert but as the light was very harsh(bright full on sunshine),
I would be inclined to decrease exposure and brightness levels slightly in pp
it helps with the colour/contrast and definition in my view.

You did the good bit capturing the action and rarities, controlling the light is way more difficult with wildlife photography,
having spent literally hundreds/probably thousands of hours over the years photographing wildlife in it's natural environment I got a bit frustrated,
these days I have less time for this type of thing, but I do admire anyone prepared to put in the hours!

At the end of the day it doesn't matter what gear one uses, light will always be the dominant
factor in ensuring optimum results.

kind regards

Tony

Edited by wildoat, 08 August 2012 - 22:10 .

 

 

 

 

 

 

Moose says " if you have a very expensive lens and you have a very cheap tripod, you're nuts"  




 


#5 bobfriedman

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 10:01

Ok Thx. I will spend some time working with the images. That early morning light from the sun over the trees is tough.
bob

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#6 Andrea B.

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 15:54

Yes, Tony nailed what I was seeing, and his suggestion is the best idea. I'm guessing to try a 1/2 to 1-stop exposure decrease for the backgrounds, then bring back up any bird plumage areas as needed??

****

Ann, I do hear you.
But for my "scientific" wildflower stuff, I need to be nailing correct colours, saturation, contrasts
and exposures in-camera for accuracy while in the field.
One just cannot take liberties with this stuff in the editor because
the correct appearance of the flower might get lost.

I find it quite amazing & cool that our Nikon cameras with their increased dynamic range and improved colour
as well as their detailed in-camera settings are now giving us close to perfection in colour/sat/contrast/exposure
IF (that's a "big if")
we take the time to set up properly using proper lighting (as needed), tweaked picture controls,
measured and tweaked white balance and custom curves (as needed).
It's a lot of work up-front.

I still have some trouble with accuracy of purples & violets.
Reds/oranges/yellows are accurate but still tend to oversaturate - but not as much as they used to.

My attempts above are dependent on the LCD accuracy.
I shoot, then compare the photo to the real flower before me
Thankfully LCDs have greatly improved over time, so if the actual flower matches the LCD version
I am fairly well assured that I've made an accurate capture.

The last step - the editor - is becoming less and less important to my flower work.
I only need it for things like crops, clone-outs and selective sharpening.

**********
Bob is very good at the in-camera stuff, so I have no doubt that he will tame this D800 for his bird photography.

Andrea B.
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#7 bobfriedman

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 17:55

I think I was shooting at -.3EV to -0.7EV But the problem is that things change quickly and you very little control sometimes when it does What works for birds in flight doesn't for them on the ground. Harsh lightning. Etc. I will investigate post processing as I do minimal now.

bob

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